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Hi all, I just finished upgrading the audio in my 2019 Honda HR-V Sport and thought I’d share some of my own project details.

When I listened to the sound system while shopping for this car, I was pretty disappointed with the sound quality. I still ended up buying the car since I liked everything else about it.

First of all, just an FYI for anybody considering the audio features on the Sport trim:
On the Honda website in multiple places, they list the Sport trim as having “180-Watt Audio System with 6 Speakers”. When I popped the tweeter covers on the dashboard, I did not find any tweeters there. I emailed Honda and they responded that it is supposed to have tweeters there, and that I should go to my dealer to fix it. By this time I had already decided I was going to replace the whole audio system, so I did not follow through going to the dealer.

During this project, I bought access to techinfo.honda.com to look at the schematics on the 2019 Honda HRV sport and did not see tweeters there. The 2018 HRV EX, which is specced with tweeters, correctly has the tweeters in the schematic. Therefore I believe the 2019 Honda HRV sport audio specification is wrong on the Honda website.


So the equipment I bought were the following:
Kenwood DDX9904S Head Unit (supports Android Auto and Apple Carplay)
Kenwood X-801-5 5-channel class-D amplifier (5th channel allows me to had a subwoofer later)
Front speakers: Morel Maximo Ultra 602 component speakers
Rear speakers: Morel Maximo Ultra Coax

To attempt to retain steering wheel controls, I bought the following:
iDatalink Maestro RR
iDatalink HRN-RR-HO2 Honda adapter

Unfortunately, my assumption that the HO2 adapter would work with the 2019 model because the iDatalink website said it would work with the 2018 was a bad assumption. According to the schematics on the techinfo.honda.com, much of the pinout from the car to the factory head unit has changed from 2018 to 2019. I asked iDatalink and they said a HO4 adapter is in the works, but only very early in development :(

So I decided to forgo the steering wheel controls (audio controls as well as phone) as my focus was to improve the audio quality. I ended up not using the HO2 Honda adapter and created my own adapter from the factory dashboard harnesses to the Kenwood Head Unit harness, pieced together from other Metra adapters I found to fit.

Below is what the factory car dashboard harnesses look like:


And Metra 70-1731 has two connectors that can be used to pass the appropriate signals to the Kenwood Head unit harness. You may have to relocate some of the pins on these two connectors to mate correctly with the pins on the factory dashboard harnesses. I used a “kweiny auto terminals removal key” I found on ebay.

Backup camera:
This connector in Metra 70-1731 is used for the backup camera:


Pin 13 is Camera Power Supply
Pin 30 is Camera Power Ground
The factory head unit supplies the power to the backup camera, and unfortunately the Kenwood Head unit does not supply camera power. This meant the backup camera needed power from somewhere else. I could not find the supply voltage anywhere online, or even on techinfo.honda.com, so I re-connected the factory head unit, and measured the voltage while the backup camera was on. To supply the camera with the measured 7.8V, I spliced into the wires of the front cigarette lighter power adapter because this is a switched supply (turns off when key ignition is off, or out; so the backup camera doesn’t drain the battery). Then I connected this to a buck dc-dc converter, that was set to output 7.8V. The output of the dc converter are connected to the wires on this Metra connector that correspond to Pin 13 and 30.

DC-DC converter:


The wires on this Metra connector that correspond to the following pins are connected to a composite video plug, which plugs into the Kenwood Head unit.
Pin 14 is Camera Signal Ground
Pin 29 is Camera Signal
Unfortunately I don’t have a way to switch the three viewing angles of the camera, which are controlled by pins 31 and 32. Luckily the default view of the camera is the wide angle, which I usually find the most useful. Additionally, since the iDatalink maestro adapter didn’t work, the Kenwood head unit has no steering inputs, so the rear guidelines don’t move with the steering wheel.

For reference, here is the associated pinout on the factory dashboard side. Excuse some of the scribble, that was my from my failed attempt to translate 2018 to 2019 signals for use with the iDatalink Maestro. Remember these pinouts will be mirrored images of the Metra connectors.


Headunit connections:
This connector in Metra 70-1731 is used to connect to the Kenwood head unit.


The wires on this Metra connector that correspond to the following pins are soldered to the appropriate wires on the Kenwood head unit harness.
Pin 1 is Ground
Pin 3 is Power supply
Pin 23 is ACC

For reference, here is the associated pinout on the dashboard side:


I used the following Crutchfield master sheet to find the Reverse and parking brake signals, spliced into them, and connected them to the Kenwood head unit harness. Unfortunately I did not record the exact location of these identified pins on their harnesses, you’ll have to find them on techinfo.honda.com


As others have pointed out, Honda uses some funky USB connectors for the head unit, incompatible with the normal USB plugs the Kenwood head unit has. I could not find any adapter out there, so I cut them off, and soldered the wires to USB Type A Male DIY connector plugs:

This allows me to use the stock USB ports that are on the panel underneath the heater controls.

For reference, this is the pinout of the honda USB plugs:



Additionally I needed a Metra 40-HD11 adapter to connect the factory FM antenna to the Kenwood head unit. The blue wire on this adapter goes to the Antenna power control wire on the Kenwood head unit harness.

Unfortunately I could not find an external dimmer control wire to dim the Kenwood head unit brightness from the speedometer knob. I believe the factory head unit’s dimming was controlled via a CAN databus.

Here is my final adapter:


Wiring/speakers/amplifier:
I made a fuse holder mount from Lexan near the battery for amplifier power:


And fed this power line through the grommet on the firewall behind the blower motor, which is behind the glove box (the grommet is the big rubbery, flappy looking thing):


Then i ran this power line underneath the passenger side of the center console, then underneath the carpet in the rear seat area, and finally to the trunk. All the other signal lines were routed via the door steps to the trunk, as far away from the power line as possible, to avoid interference.

In the rear right cubby of the trunk I made a wooden panel mount for the amplifier and bolted it to the sheet metal. This panel essentially creates a solid backplane for the amplifier to sit inside the trunk. I didn’t want the amplifier to be completely covered up by trim in case it would overheat.




Trim put back on, and amplifier mounted:


My friend helped me cut out holes in the triangular sail pieces near the mirrors for the tweeters. Originally I was going to use the dashboard tweeter mounts, but he was willing to help me cut the holes, and insisted this would sound better.



Conclusion:
The system sounds fantastic, much much better than the stock system. It was a lot of work, took about 4 weeks of after-work sessions and weekends, but it was worth it to me. If Maestro ever comes out with the HO4 adapter, I’ll throw that in to hopefully regain steering wheel controls. I plan on adding a subwoofer soon as well.
 

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Wow, great writeup, I like the placement of the amp... Something I've struggled with in past cars not taking up too much room.
 

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Great write up with nice clear photos! This will be helpful to others who want to install their own audio system.
 

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@hojong - Fantastic post! Will be super useful to those who need it. But you probably should have started a new thread. People looking for information about the 2019 HR-V aren't likely to look in this thread.

Mods, can you move this post and the responses to it to a new thread so people can better find it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all! Oh I didn't think of the 2019 info point, Radicaldad, good point. Yes, mods, feel free to move the post.
 

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Do you have any pics of the back of factory display infotainment unit? I'm wondering if it has any additional inputs outside of the the 2 usb's?

The 2019 had the hdmi which they got rid of, and they got rid of the cd player in 2019 lol.
 

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I used to be a stereo salesman. I beleive you are focusing on the wrong thing. A new head unit will not make much difference. Good speakers and a subwoofer will
 

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So I paid the money for the 2019 Hrv pinout on techinfo.honda because I wanted to double check the harness that came with a Chinese android head unit I purchased. All the links to the '19 hr-v (5" or 7" inch radio) are broken. I contacted Honda tech multiple times and they said they would give me a call when they fix it. Its been a while now and nothing. Anyone have the pin out for the connector plugs? Right now I'm going on the assumption its the same as '16+ civic as they use the same Metra 70-1731 harness.
29699


Edit: They fixed it after this post. It's all up there now.
 

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Just wanted to say thanks hojong, I finally installed a Android head unit and it was able to retain steering wheel controls, clock, backupcamera (with buck converter) and it also came with a canbus that lets me see things such as if doors are open, oil life, MPG, rear camera grid that turns with the wheel and other stuff.
29701
29704
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Wow! Imagine if that was stock, looks great. Any parts list or costs you can share?
 

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Wow! Imagine if that was stock, looks great. Any parts list or costs you can share?
Hardware:
Joying head unit - $271 (do not buy this without sending a pic of the back of your current head unit to the seller, if you can afford paying more get the Dasaita)
Buck Converter for stock backup camera - $10 (Stock camera uses 6 volts)
Radio Pinout Schematics - $10 (I attached these, 2019+ uses different pinouts/connectors from 2018, but you can use the same Chinese canbus on any hrv) All radio retailers including crutchfield think the 2019 use the same connector as the 2018 and below, it doesn't. 2019 = Metra 70-1731, 2018 and below = Metra 70-1729
Android Auto/Apple Carplay Adapter - $60 (optional but I recommend it)
Software:
Launcher - Car Launcher AGAMA
Music - PowerAmp (I Prefer an older version(v2) as (v3) has issues with android oreo
 

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Catstandya - looks great! How did you get the CANBUS info to your head unit? idatalink normally does this (and my upcoming HU has a port for it), but there isn't a device for 2019 HRV from my understanding.
 

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Catstandya - looks great! How did you get the CANBUS info to your head unit? idatalink normally does this (and my upcoming HU has a port for it), but there isn't a device for 2019 HRV from my understanding.
They provided me with a 20pin canbus and harness as seen in the picture below. The canbus supposedly works on 2013-2019 HRVs, at least that's what the guy told me. The only changes I had to make was splicing in the buck converter for the backup camera. They provided me with a free 12v backup camera but I wanted to keep it stock.I might use the camera they gave me for free to add the lane watch feature to my LX as their head unit supports it.
I took a gamble when buying it, I had my doubts and the sellers aren't very good at understanding English. Overall I was surprised everything did work.
 

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Very interesting thanks. I also have a 2019 LX and bought a JVC KW-M855BW along with accompanying harness from Crutchfield. First pass was wrong harness (apparently HRV has different model stock head units), but I have been interested in a datalink connection. Any idea the pinout info between head unit and HRV wiring?
 

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Additional question as I am partially through my hookup (only backup camera and mic not working).

For the Mic, I prefer to use the stock one and not mount the one with my new head unit. Is this as simple as connecting the Mic+ and Mic- on Audio Until Connector B to a standard Audio connector Jack? Anyone do this?
 

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Very interesting thanks. I also have a 2019 LX and bought a JVC KW-M855BW along with accompanying harness from Crutchfield. First pass was wrong harness (apparently HRV has different model stock head units), but I have been interested in a datalink connection. Any idea the pinout info between head unit and HRV wiring?
Unfortunately this wont be much use for you with your aftermarket headunit as the canbus most likely only works with the custom rom in the android headunit they provide. Mine came with no info at all so I kinda made my own (terrible) pinout
29726
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Great work cantstandya! I'm jealous you are able to have all that functionality in your head unit. I am still waiting for maestro idatalink to update the harness for the 2019 HRV...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I recently upgraded my speaker setup to use an active crossover. Very annoyingly after the install, I was getting a 4 khz buzz in my tweeters when I wasn't applying the brake while the transmission was in drive, or reverse!

After much diagnosing, and ruling out ground loop, alternator whine, amplifier inputs, and other typical noise sources, I finally figured out the noise was only in the left tweeter, and induced by whatever is in this black box near the fuel-filler, on the driver side. Perhaps it is some kind of electronic controller?

Anyways, if anybody is routing speaker wire from the front to the back of the car, stay away from this box!


I ended up routing away from the wire bundles near the box as well, going directly from the bottom runner of the rear left passenger door, and directly into the trunk, using a gap underneath the trunk false floor. Previously my speaker wire was going from the runner, then over the wheel well, near this box, and then finally into the trunk.
 
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