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Discussion Starter #21
I think I read that newer Civic and Accords have more settings including the auto-light sensitivity and possibly an option to set a time for the lights to stay on.
 

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Switching to LED headlights would help… They take a lot less power than halogen…
 

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FYI- My 2017 came with a 410CCA battery, and I recently purchased new from the dealership and installed myself - it is the same 51R, BUT it's now rated at 500CCA.
I wonder if they upgraded all, or the parts dept batteries are 500CCA to cover all the Honda models ?
 

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My 51R battery finally died last week, so I bought a remanufactured 56R battery to try out the fitment. 56R isn't very popular anymore as it was used on mid 80's Ford's and Jeep's. It has 590 CCA.

It fits fine without the original tray and box. I need to find a 56R tray for it.
29752
 

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My 51R battery finally died last week, so I bought a remanufactured 56R battery to try out the fitment. 56R isn't very popular anymore as it was used on mid 80's Ford's and Jeep's. It has 590 CCA.

It fits fine without the original tray and box. I need to find a 56R tray for it. View attachment 29752
My 51R battery finally died last week, so I bought a remanufactured 56R battery to try out the fitment. 56R isn't very popular anymore as it was used on mid 80's Ford's and Jeep's. It has 590 CCA.

It fits fine without the original tray and box. I need to find a 56R tray for it. View attachment 29752
"Remanufactured?" That would mean "manufactured again." Highly doubtful. Used, tested, seems to work right now maybe.
 

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"Remanufactured?" That would mean "manufactured again." Highly doubtful. Used, tested, seems to work right now maybe.
It's actually "Reconditioned". I tested it with and without a load and it passed. It was only $40 with a 1 year full replacement warranty. I figured if it lasts at least a couple years, I got my money's worth.
 

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It's actually "Reconditioned". I tested it with and without a load and it passed. It was only $40 with a 1 year full replacement warranty. I figured if it lasts at least a couple years, I got my money's worth.
This link is a little misleading. Used batteries are worth approximately $5 for "core". trade-in value. No reason for them to go to the dump, and that is illegal in most areas anyway. "Reconditioning" a battery is a dubious process that has been promoted for decades but has never really caught in because it is only marginally effective. A 1 year warranty is not very generous.
Don
 

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FYI- My 2017 came with a 410CCA battery, and I recently purchased new from the dealership and installed myself - it is the same 51R, BUT it's now rated at 500CCA.
I wonder if they upgraded all, or the parts dept batteries are 500CCA to cover all the Honda models ?
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29758
29759
 

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What impact is there if the battery is disconnected? For example, is there a radio code needed? does the lost of power cause loss of memory of systems that would be a problem?

Is it recommended to use a memory saver when disconnecting the battery? If yes, any recommendations for a good memory saver?
 

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You don’t lose anything when you disconnect the battery. At least nothing I remember , and I’ve done it tens of times… Cars aren’t like the early 2000’s, much more memories are stored in non-volatile RAM that doesn’t need current.
 

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My 51R battery finally died last week, so I bought a remanufactured 56R battery to try out the fitment. 56R isn't very popular anymore as it was used on mid 80's Ford's and Jeep's. It has 590 CCA.

It fits fine without the original tray and box. I need to find a 56R tray for it. View attachment 29752
How is the positive terminal removed? I see there is a small circular nut and then what looks like a longer rectagular nut.
Is there actually 2 nuts that need to be removed separately?

It's not typically what I have seen in the past where there is 1 hex nut like on the negative terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
How is the positive terminal removed? I see there is a small circular nut and then what looks like a longer rectagular nut.
Is there actually 2 nuts that need to be removed separately?

It's not typically what I have seen in the past where there is 1 hex nut like on the negative terminal.
You only need to loosen the longer nut to remove the postive battery post.
 

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I think I read that newer Civic and Accords have more settings including the auto-light sensitivity and possibly an option to set a time for the lights to stay on.
What impact is there if the battery is disconnected? For example, is there a radio code needed? does the lost of power cause loss of memory of systems that would be a problem?

Is it recommended to use a memory saver when disconnecting the battery? If yes, any recommendations for a good memory saver?
No radio code needed any more. You will probably lose radio station presets, you will lose destination settings in NAV if you have that. You may have to turn off and start it a second time or even drive it a littleto get rid of a bunch of warning lights. Not an intimidating scenario.
 

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Our 2006 Acura had a wimpy 51R (500CCA) battery also.
Although it always made me nervous, the original battery miraculously lasted 12 years with no issues before I tossed it.
I load tested every year and it only got a bit weak in the 12th year.

Our new to us, used 2016 HRV has a brand new looking 51R (500CCA) battery in it.
If it ever fails, installing a much larger battery would be the plan.
The Acura had tons of room to install a much larger 700CCA battery in it.
The space for the HRV battery does look much tighter though.
It may take some work to stuff in a larger battery.
 

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I dont know where you guys shop but be careful with specs on batteries ,when they state cranking amps,some don't give true info,,now the fit and hrv take the 51r,if you want an awesome battery trust me go with a magna power, they are tuff and give you 50 amps more than stock,you will hear when you start the car you got a True 50 more,cranks faster,had mine in my fit for 5 yrs.still like it was when I installed it.sold at parts source and other places $130.
 

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So I tried installing a group 24F battery and it wouldn’t fit because the airbox and the transmission bolt are in the way.

After doing some measurements, the maximum width shouldn’t exceed 6in which rules out a group 35.

I think I’m going to go for the XSPower 5100R which is the same size as the original 51R. Somehow, they managed to pack more power in there as it’s got 650CCA!


If anyone else in interested in the same setup, you’ll also need part# 580 which is the short SAE terminal posts.
 

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How do you remove the plastic piece that holds the negative wire in place at the hold down clamp?
It looks like a nut but I tried turning it but does not seem to come up/off.

Do you simply pull straight up to remove the plastic piece?
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #38
How do you remove the plastic piece that holds the negative wire in place at the hold down clamp?
It looks like a nut but I tried turning it but does not seem to come up/off.

Do you simply pull straight up to remove the plastic piece?
Thank you
Yes, you just pull it up. Wiggle it if you need to.
 
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