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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my HRV last Feb. I just want to upsize the wheel to 18'' to make it look sporty. Present wheel size: 215x55x17 5/114.3 ET55. The availabe rim is 18x8.5 5/114.3 ET35 suggested tire is 235x50x18. Any comment on the tire size and the ET35 of the rim.
 

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235x50x18 should not be the suggested tire size. That width and aspect ratio only matches stock (for overall diameter) if it's on the 17" wheel. I know this, because I have 235/50/17 tires on my 17x8 aftermarket wheels. And I made it a point to match the overall diameter.

The size that most closely matches the overall diameter of the stock on an 18" wheel is 235/45/18.

According to this, the tire will stick out more than an inch further out than stock, if using the sizes you want. Will need to be careful of it rubbing on fender and such.
 

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What ET you buy really depends on what you want and what is available.

I want mine as close to stock as possible, to minimize the chances of it rubbing the fender, while still being clear of the strut too, so I went with a +50. This gave a secondary effect when combined with the 235/50/17 tire, in that the outside lines up nicely with the fender. Of course, being close to stock means mechanically, it’s close to whatever Honda engineered it to be.

If you want a “poke“ look, where the tires/wheels stick out even more than that, then you can go with a lower ET, but like I said before, you risk rubbing either the liner or fender if it’s too low. While there isn’t a whole lot that can be done with the liner (zip tie/bungee it out of the way or straight up remove it), you can usually ”roll” the fender a bit to make room. Of course, it’s still possible to go with a low enough ET that even rolling won’t help.

Like I said, it’s all a question of what you want (includes what you’re willing to do).

And what is available means you’ll have to compromise if the wheel you want isn’t offered in ET you ended up deciding on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I do not like the 45 aspect ratio for the reason that the bounch is hard. Also I dont like the big space from the fender to the level of the tire when I am looking at the CRV from the side. This is the main reason why I want to upsize the wheels &
What ET you buy really depends on what you want and what is available.

I want mine as close to stock as possible, to minimize the chances of it rubbing the fender, while still being clear of the strut too, so I went with a +50. This gave a secondary effect when combined with the 235/50/17 tire, in that the outside lines up nicely with the fender. Of course, being close to stock means mechanically, it’s close to whatever Honda engineered it to be.

If you want a “poke“ look, where the tires/wheels stick out even more than that, then you can go with a lower ET, but like I said before, you risk rubbing either the liner or fender if it’s too low. While there isn’t a whole lot that can be done with the liner (zip tie/bungee it out of the way or straight up remove it), you can usually ”roll” the fender a bit to make room. Of course, it’s still possible to go with a low enough ET that even rolling won’t help.

Like I said, it’s all a question of what you want (includes what you’re willing to do).

And what is available means you’ll have to compromise if the wheel you want isn’t offered in ET you ended up deciding on.

What ET you buy really depends on what you want and what is available.

I want mine as close to stock as possible, to minimize the chances of it rubbing the fender, while still being clear of the strut too, so I went with a +50. This gave a secondary effect when combined with the 235/50/17 tire, in that the outside lines up nicely with the fender. Of course, being close to stock means mechanically, it’s close to whatever Honda engineered it to be.

If you want a “poke“ look, where the tires/wheels stick out even more than that, then you can go with a lower ET, but like I said before, you risk rubbing either the liner or fender if it’s too low. While there isn’t a whole lot that can be done with the liner (zip tie/bungee it out of the way or straight up remove it), you can usually ”roll” the fender a bit to make room. Of course, it’s still possible to go with a low enough ET that even rolling won’t help.

Like I said, it’s all a question of what you want (includes what you’re willing to do).

And what is available means you’ll have to compromise if the wheel you want isn’t offered in ET you ended up deciding on.
tires.
I am not in favor with the 45 aspect ratio because of the hard bounch. The reason why I want to change to a taller wheels & tires is that there is a big space from the fender skirt to the level of the tire when I look at the CRV from the side. If I insist on 50 aspect ratio what àre the changes the car needs.
 

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Officially, if you insist on 235/50/18, you would need to find someone to reprogram the ECU to offset the change in diameter as that will affect both the odometer and speedometer.

On one hand, you could get pulled over if you forget that your speedometer is reporting less than its actually going (says 60 but you're going ~63). I routinely drive 5 mph over the limit on local roads and cops ignore me. But add another 3 mph, and they might not ignore me anymore. Last year, I got an automatic ticket (actually a warning, since it was the first time) from a speed camera because I was going 36 mph in a 30 zone... even though I normally go 35 without issue.

Though, I suppose there are places around the world that don't really care that much about speeding...

And the odo will report a much lower lifetime mileage. As to what the consequences of those are... I honestly don't know. I tried googling it, but the only real consequence talks about actual odometer fraud, like rolling back the odo... and that is a federal crime. So unless there's some external system that tracks your mileage and compares it to what the odo shows, probably isn't an issue.

I guess just it's something to keep in mind.

You keep typing CRV... are we sure we're on the right forum here?

Anyway, I don't know about you, but I think my HR-V looks pretty good with 235/50/17 on 17x8 wheels...
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Window

It is lowered on Tanabe sport springs... and additionally, I run them +5-6 psi over what the door jam recommends (32/30). So yeah, my ride is pretty stiff.

I suppose if you put slightly less air (-1 or -2 psi) in the tires than recommended (by Honda, not tire maker), it could be a little softer than recommended.

Of course, if you were using the tire maker's max pressure, then I'd say that's way too much, and just lowering it down to what Honda recommends would make it a lot softer.
 

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If you go to tire websites such as Discount Tire, you can actually see your tire/wheel combinations in different diameters and profiles. If the OD of the wheel is unchanged, the ECU won't make a difference.
I have two sets of wheels for one of my cars with TPMS in different diameter/profiles and matching OD (winter set with deep treads and summer set with all-season treads). I switch back and forth between the seasons without resetting anything. They work fine.
 

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If you go to tire websites such as Discount Tire, you can actually see your tire/wheel combinations in different diameters and profiles. If the OD of the wheel is unchanged, the ECU won't make a difference.
I have two sets of wheels for one of my cars with TPMS in different diameter/profiles and matching OD (winter set with deep treads and summer set with all-season treads). I switch back and forth between the seasons without resetting anything. They work fine.
Yes, there's no difference if the OD is the same...

But we've already known the OD won't be the same.

I already have 235/50/17 tires, that I expressly bought to match stock OD.

The OP is trying to buy the same width and aspect tire on a bigger 18" wheel, which automatically makes it bigger than stock.

I know its sometimes annoying to read through a lengthy thread to get all the up to date info of the conversation... but there were only 6 posts, and the VERY FIRST reply said the OD didn't match.
 
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