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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
From an engine builder's website - makes sense to me:

"Break-in oils have existed long before the flat-tappet cam break-in fiasco of the mid-2000s. There is even a chapter dedicated to break-in oils in the “SAE Lubricants Handbook.” It was commonplace for OEMs to use break-in oils before car leasing became popular. As the EPA fuel economy requirements tightened, the need for less maintenance and better fuel economy ended the use of break-in oils as factory fill in new vehicles. "
If that is the case are there additives that you can add yourself to the engine oil to replace what they took out???
 

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If that is the case are there additives that you can add yourself to the engine oil to replace what they took out???

There are tons of additives available but I don't and I wouldn't add any to the HRV 1.8L engine.
It's a low revving, low performance, SOHC, economy engine.
I would just change the oil and filter at 5000miles or less, depending on your driving habits rather than running it for longer intervals.



I don't use additives in my wife's 2006 TSX. K24 2.4L, minor mods, super high revving, DOHC, 6 speed manual trans.

Instead of using additives, many guys with old musclecars are now using diesel engine oil in their gas engines.
Modern diesel engine oils also have many engine wear additives removed but it is better than modern gas engine oil.

I use synthetic diesel engine oil in my 5.0L Mustang. Built engine, now revs to 7000rpm, road racing it. Manual trans.
Cam in block with solid roller lifters but it's an aggressive aftermarket cam with stiff valve springs.

I do use ZDDP zinc additive in our Dodge 6 cylinder Cummins diesel. Cam in block, solid flat tappets, but 24valves and aftermarket stiff valve springs. Twin turbos, manual trans.
 
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Yes-
they make oils that are break-in oils too - but nothing the OEMs will give you for the car you drive off the lot.
 

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Well I posted a note on Bob the Oil Guy site about when to change the initial oil....Everyone that replied said to leave the factory oil in till about 10 % on the oil life monitor. It has added zinc and other additives in it to help with breaking the engine in right. I was going to change my oil...at 5000 right now..but will wait now...after the first oil change then I will go to 5000 miles or 50% on oil life monitor....by the way Bob the Oil Guy is a great site...
I'm not sure about break-in oils but I've always started changing oil on my new and used vehicles over the past 50 years at 5K mile intervals. Only one vehicle burned oil from new and it had a reputation for that but it was an impulse buy. Expensive lesson learned. Anyway, I've never had a problem with any other vehicle burning oil or having any engine damage from the oil. I've always used the recommended oil in a brand name.

As far as additives, new cars have new additives for the type of engine it's recommended for (VVT systems, etc.) and ZDDP is almost non-existent in oil anymore due to catalytic converters and EPA emissions laws. In my opinion, use your favorite flavor in the recommended viscosity and spec requirements. When in doubt, read the owner's manual (skip the interval recommendations because these are to meet government "carbon footprint" requirements. and also the label on the oil bottle. Change it frequently and regularly with a good oil filter. Common sense and cheap insurance.

And don't buy cheap gas! The brand doesn't matter as long as the fuel tank says, "Top Tier", beside the brand name.
 

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I swear Amsoil XL 0W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil paired with a WIX 57356XP Oil Filter for all of my Honda's.
WIX oil filters can be found at NAPA auto parts stores sold under the label, "NAPA Gold", and the oil filter number is usually minus the first number, also usually a "5". I use only NAPA Gold 7356 (not XP) which is the same as the WIX 57356 at about half the price. I've been using these oil filters in all of my Honda's and in my Mazda Miata for decades. They are excellent.

I agree that AMSOIL has the best fluids out there. I disagree that you should use ONLY the 0W-20 viscosity in ALL of your Honda's, just the ones that require that particular viscosity. However, even though I use only AMSOIL fluids in my manual and automatic transmissions (regular and CVT), FWD, RWD, AWD, and non-AWD differentials (I used the AMSOIL in my Miata's rear differential), I don't always use AMSOIL in the engines even though it is excellent.

Right now, I use Mobil1 High Mileage in my old Honda's with over 75K miles on them and I use Mobil1 0W-20 AFE (Advance Fuel Economy) which is designed for the Honda HR-V engine (it used to have the Honda name on the jug label).

There is no AMSOIL or any other brand of fluid that can replace the HONDA FLUID DUAL PUMP II for the rear AWD differential that I know of, so I have to stick with it. If AMSOIL ever makes one, I will use it.

Bottom line: Due to over 30 years of personal experience with AMSOIL products, I prefer them for ALL of my non-engine fluids and for MOST of my engine fluids. None of my vehicles has ever had a problem with AMSOIL fluids, American, Japanese or German. None of my vehicles consume oil and most of them have well over 100K miles, some of them over 200K miles.
 
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