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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! As the title to my post suggests, I am a complete novice when it comes to installing aftermarket electronics in my vehicle. I’m considering and under seat, self powered sub but have no idea of the proper way to get signal to it, as well as power. I have looked over the owners manual but I am uncertain as to whether the head unit in my vehicle has RCA outputs or not, as well as how to wire into the speaker lines for high-level inputs if there are no RCA outputs, or the proper way to obtain power to the sub. I’m really hoping some of the patient experts in this forum will help a guy out! Below is the link to the sub I’m looking at and any and all help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R58...abc_ZTG07ESF75F5DHZK0JKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Good luck finding room for it under the seats - esp if you have AWD.
(No RCA jacks in the Honda OEM radios by the way.)
 

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just finished installing a spare tire amp/sub last week. ran 8 gauge power wire from battery through passenger side firewall to trunk. grounded to a rear seat bolt. took the signal from the rear speakers from the behind the b pillar.
i installed this one will make the floor stick up about 1/4" but i have a cargo cover and its not noticeable. they do make a shallower version as well. got this one as i found it locally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
just finished installing a spare tire amp/sub last week. ran 8 gauge power wire from battery through passenger side firewall to trunk. grounded to a rear seat bolt. took the signal from the rear speakers from the behind the b pillar.
i installed this one will make the floor stick up about 1/4" but i have a cargo cover and its not noticeable. they do make a shallower version as well. got this one as i found it locally.
Very cool! Do you get any rattle when it is active? Wasn’t aware that this type of speaker was an option, just wondering what happens if you need the spare tire? Ha ha John made a great point about getting it under the seats, I do not have AWD but there is still limited space. I thought I could put a unit like the one in my initial post perhaps under the rear seats but I guess I’ll have to just do some measurements, as well as research on the spare tire subs. I appreciate the help guys! When I say I am a rookie, I’m as green as they come as far as running wire through a firewall, etc. even though I do have some experience in wiring electronics. Perhaps there are YouTube videos?🤣
 

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not much rattle in my opinion, ymmv. although i have two layers of noico in the doors, behind a,b,c pillars, parts of the floor, doors, hatch. the sub has a connector right at the on the side - just disconnect them, remove the hold down wing nut, and sub comes out. there are lots of youtube videos of running wires, etc.thats where i found the spare tire sub. i saw someone install a spare tire sub in a crv, which gave me the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
not much rattle in my opinion, ymmv. although i have two layers of noico in the doors, behind a,b,c pillars, parts of the floor, doors, hatch. the sub has a connector right at the on the side - just disconnect them, remove the hold down wing nut, and sub comes out. there are lots of youtube videos of running wires, etc.thats where i found the spare tire sub. i saw someone install a spare tire sub in a crv, which gave me the idea.
So, getting my Rockville 8” spare tire sub today. Courtesy of YouTube it looks like running power from the battery should be fairly simple but I’m curious as to how you tapped into the rear speaker wires? You mentioned the B pillar but I’m not 100% certain where that is or how you tapped into the line level signal for the rear speakers, would you mind clarifying that a little bit for me please?
 

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Once you pull the glove box out and unscrew the plastic tub of the glove box theee is a metal control box at the top center. Pull the contector/harness out and tuck in behind it. You will be good to go. It is the ONLY thing that look like a silver control box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Once you pull the glove box out and unscrew the plastic tub of the glove box theee is a metal control box at the top center. Pull the contector/harness out and tuck in behind it. You will be good to go. It is the ONLY thing that look like a silver control box.
Thank you so much! I’m looking through the firewall and I don’t see a grommet really I can pass through for the power supply, any suggestions?
 

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My sub (kicker pt250 10” powered unit) was wired in to the fuse box under the dash due to it pulling very very low amperage.
Might want to check under the drivers side back behind the pedals. There has to be a main line going in the egine bay somewhere back there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Once you pull the glove box out and unscrew the plastic tub of the glove box theee is a metal control box at the top center. Pull the contector/harness out and tuck in behind it. You will be good to go. It is the ONLY thing that look like a silver control box.
31910

Is this it?
 

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So, getting my Rockville 8” spare tire sub today. Courtesy of YouTube it looks like running power from the battery should be fairly simple but I’m curious as to how you tapped into the rear speaker wires? You mentioned the B pillar but I’m not 100% certain where that is or how you tapped into the line level signal for the rear speakers, would you mind clarifying that a little bit for me please?
i ran the power inside through the grommet on the passenger side. there's already a bunch of wires there i ran the new wire as close to the center of the bundle as i could. b pillar = between the front and rear seats. move the front seats forward and removed the surrounding plastic trim panels. speaker wires are taped up and twisted together before they are go into the bigger bundle of wiring. another option is to tap into speaker wires is inside the door panels. i've included my speaker diagram for a canada 2019 hrv lx. 7inch screen without nav.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i ran the power inside through the grommet on the passenger side. there's already a bunch of wires there i ran the new wire as close to the center of the bundle as i could. b pillar = between the front and rear seats. move the front seats forward and removed the surrounding plastic trim panels. speaker wires are taped up and twisted together before they are go into the bigger bundle of wiring. another option is to tap into speaker wires is inside the door panels. i've included my speaker diagram for a canada 2019 hrv lx. 7inch screen without nav.
Awesome, thank you sir! I tried getting it through a grommet on the passenger side earlier today without success, too much stuff in the way like the cabin air filter for example, assuming we are talking about the same grommet. I’ll look over your diagram and thank you so much again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes! That. Is it
So it turns out that this particular connector is not for the ANC. When I disconnected it, I got a multi system malfunction error for power brake, road departure mitigation, brake system, power steering system, etc. I plugged it back in and had to start my vehicle and power it off a few times for the systems to reset. Not a big deal, Just wanted to post this here in case others with the same model are looking for that same ANC function to disable.
 

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im not sure why you need to disconnect that, but i did not disconnect any factory items. the sub should work on its own without any issues. yes that's the one i ran mine through. i did use a wire insertion tool, but something like a coat hanger and tape might work. there should also be a grommet on the driver side, but i found passenger side was easier for me. another option is drill a new hole.
 

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im not sure why you need to disconnect that, but i did not disconnect any factory items. the sub should work on its own without any issues. yes that's the one i ran mine through. i did use a wire insertion tool, but something like a coat hanger and tape might work. there should also be a grommet on the driver side, but i found passenger side was easier for me. another option is drill a new hole.
the factory Active Noise Cancellation - it will try to counteract your sub I assume. I have heard disconnecting this about a few models of cars when upgrading stereos etc.
 
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