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Since there isn’t a write-up yet on this mod, I figured I’d post my experience having done this the other day.

First off, I ordered a set of these from jdmyamato.com. They actually have many postings on eBay under the name “jdm_enjoy_shoppin” for JDM parts (quite a few for the Vezel also) but it’s much cheaper to order directly from their webstore. Let me say that they are very quick to respond to questions, and very helpful. The transaction was smooth and my tail lights shipped via EMS from Japan the day after I placed my order. I received them in about 5 days, and they did one **** of a packing job. Extremely professional and you can tell they take pride in what they do.

The initial worry about the swap was the wiring of the inner tail lights. Wiring up a work around is certainly do-able but I didn’t want to have to Macgyver a wiring harness. Before purchasing, I talked to JDM Yamato about the factory harness connector and asked if they could source them for me. Luckily, he had them on hand and happily offered to include them free of charge to me. I had some idea of what part I needed if this fell through, but this was great news.

A short time later I received the box. It was huge, and I guess I should have expected that.




They did a great job packing everything and making sure nothing would get damaged. Boxes were repacked with padding and the lights themselves were wrapped in layers of bubble wrap. I was very impressed.




The lights themselves…




The stock connectors and pigtails that were included…




So the first thing I did after disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery, is remove the plastic cladding from the rear hatch. The top panel comes off first, then the sides, and finally the big back panel that protects the lights and wiper assembly. All of these panels are held in simply by clips, so a few decent tugs in strategic spots should pull these free from the body panels without much drama.

The inner tail lights are held in place by 4 bolts. Not much to say here, pretty straight forward getting them in and out.

The pigtails that were sent to me were not long enough to reach the license plate light harness that I wanted to tap into for power, so I simply soldered on extensions with 16 gauge wire that I had on hand for auto wiring. I unwrapped the harness for the license plate lights, and found two wires, a grey wire for power, and a black wire for ground. I tapped into these respectively using 3M Scotchlok 804 taps that come prefilled with dielectric grease. I tapped the left license plate light harness for the driver’s side light and the right light harness for the passenger side light.








After I had everything wired up, I simply cleaned everything up with wire loom and zip tied the additional wires in place.






The outer lights are a direct swap. Unbolt two screws, and simply pull out the light. The harness has a weird connector that looks like it uses a push tab to release it, but it doesn’t. Simply squeeze the sides of the connector to clear the tab from its notch and pull it out gently. The JDM lights plug right in.
Plastic panels install in reverse fashion. Bottom, sides, then top.

Lights off:


Parking lights on:


Brake lights on:




The results speak for themselves. I’m very happy with the swap. The turn signals lenses are also totally clear, without the slight tint that the USDM lights have. A nice touch. I used VLEDS Triton V3 LED amber turn signals to preserve the clear look of the lens.
 

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But I still don't know about the exhaust system leaing up against the wall ;)
 

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But I still don't know about the exhaust system leaing up against the wall ;)
LOL I knew someone was gonna mention that. I've had that thing sitting there for years after I swapped an HKS exhaust onto my other car. It's all one huge piece too so I don't know how to get rid of it. I kinda just pray that it doesn't fall over lol.

Maybe what I should have done is buy an F150 instead of an HRV and gotten rid of that thing.
 

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Well, you've convinced me. I bit the bullet and ordered the complete set from Impex Japan for $627.68 USD. I didn't see a way to pay for shipping but according to their calculator, it'll be another $80. I'm guessing they'll be emailing me tomorrow with a bill for shipping.

Now I just have to find the connectors. Would you happen to know what they're called? Do you have any other pictures of them?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, you've convinced me. I bit the bullet and ordered the complete set from Impex Japan for $627.68 USD. I didn't see a way to pay for shipping but according to their calculator, it'll be another $80. I'm guessing they'll be emailing me tomorrow with a bill for shipping.

Now I just have to find the connectors. Would you happen to know what they're called? Do you have any other pictures of them?

Sorry I neglected to take more pictures of the connectors before I got started, but if it helps here's a link to a full resolution photo of them: http://i.imgur.com/pKC8Dbi.jpg

Prior to buying these I did a bit of research and came up with part numbers that I am 90ish% sure are correct. For the connector, part # 04321-TR0-305: http://www.hondapartswholesaledirec...ater-fuel-cat/electrical-connectors-rr-2-scat

...it's #10 on that page. It corresponds to the connector for the inner trunk light on the Civic Hybrid. The pigtails are part # 04320-T2A-D00, or #4 on that same page. Keep in mind this is a best guess based on photo comparisons and the hope that Honda engineers aren't idiots who make a million different connectors that do the same thing lol.

Hope this helps you dude.
 

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How much effort to remove the inner plastic liner for the hatch? I have been thinking of putting butyl rubber sheeting on the metal for sound proofing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not too much, just go around the outside edges pulling up on them and the clips should pop out. Just be careful on the side with the connection for the window defroster, it's not connected to the plastic, but you don't want to damage it while taking it off. They come off in specific order tho, because the pieces fit into slots in each other... so top, then sides, then bottom. On the bottom one, it does help to take off the reverse light access panels so that you can get some leverage on the clips in the middle.
 

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Thanks Slippy. That's it. It looks like they use it for Civic and Accord Hybrids too. I'll confirm that if they fit or not when I receive everything.
 

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slippyturtle,

Do the inside tail lights turn brighter when the brake is engaged?
From what I've seen, no. None of the tube lights turn brighter. There's a separate light under the corner tube light that turns on when the brakes are applied.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
slippyturtle,

Do the inside tail lights turn brighter when the brake is engaged?
No, I have them powered by the license plate lights so they will only turn on when they do. There's only a 12v and ground, with no additional inputs.

Like 1SlowHRV mentioned, there's a 2-row LED array under each outer tail light tube for the brakes, but the tubes themselves never dim or brighten.
 

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Looks good Carlos! Looks exactly like the tails they had on the concept car.
Its a shame while Honda has it I have to put it back to stock. I'll make a new post once i have all the info but as it is right now the aftermarket tails with the plug and play harness and inner lights that run into the license plate lights are SOMEHOW causing it to blow fuses and shut down the vehicle so If anyone else has any info id like to hear about it.
 

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Looks good Carlos! Looks exactly like the tails they had on the concept car.
It's too bad they don't make them exactly like the Concept tail lights.



I noticed recently that my LED/Fog DRL lights were also copied from the concept car. Let's hope those LED headlights are added in the next facelift.


 
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