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from key 1 to key 2, light has not come on in 12 starts. (And its been on steady for a few weeks.)
So maybe it is a defect in
Scratch that theory, error light was back on last night.
Not impressed with the reliability of the technology, I"ll keep waiting for Ali
 

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I own a 2016 HR-V EX. Doors respond to the remote fine. Three months ago, (with my foot on the brake) I noticed that the push button start did not turn the car on after a single push. Usually worked on the 2nd or 3rd try.

After a week of that, I disconnected the battery. Car started after a single press of the button. Eventually went back to the initial problem. I repeated this to see if I got the same result and sure enough, same phenomenon.

Three months down, it progressed to not even turning on after a repeated push (+5 or more) of the start button while the key was in my pocket. So I had to put the key up to the button and still press the button a few times.

There is a video of a guy who replaced his keyless access remote module on his Accord.

If this is the solution, the control unit is 300. (PN 38329-T7W-A02, used to be -A01) Afraid what the dealer will charge to install and reprogram if this in fact is the Issue. Anyone else have an issue like this? Wondering if there any other fixes like a fuse replacement that resolved the issue?

I'm beyond warranty at this point at 60K+.

Thanks for your input (in advance).

Dos
I unfortunately am having the same issue. But when I keep trying either the car powers on withe the radio on or every indicator comes on the dash and flickers. My key Fob still locked the doors. So it can't be the battery because I had my new battery for a month and everythi.g else comes on. I only had my vehicle for 4 years. Before I could put the fob against the starter and the car would start right up but now it won't do that. Could it be the starter. I was on my way out for work and this happens
 

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I own a 2016 HR-V EX. Doors respond to the remote fine. Three months ago, (with my foot on the brake) I noticed that the push button start did not turn the car on after a single push. Usually worked on the 2nd or 3rd try.

After a week of that, I disconnected the battery. Car started after a single press of the button. Eventually went back to the initial problem. I repeated this to see if I got the same result and sure enough, same phenomenon.

Three months down, it progressed to not even turning on after a repeated push (+5 or more) of the start button while the key was in my pocket. So I had to put the key up to the button and still press the button a few times.

There is a video of a guy who replaced his keyless access remote module on his Accord.

If this is the solution, the control unit is 300. (PN 38329-T7W-A02, used to be -A01) Afraid what the dealer will charge to install and reprogram if this in fact is the Issue. Anyone else have an issue like this? Wondering if there any other fixes like a fuse replacement that resolved the issue?

I'm beyond warranty at this point at 60K+.

Thanks for your input (in advance).

Dos
Not only am I going through the same issue I am also getting an indicator that there is a problem with the Smart Entry System. My vehicle is currently in the shop and was told battery was dying slowly (had current battery for a lil over a month, and it would be $185.00 for a new battery) which I disagreed do to everything was still operational. The car just wouldn’t start and it was said I needed a new stater button replacement ($500.00) atbhe Honda dealership. Luckily my warranty will cove the starter replacement.
 

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Not only am I going through the same issue I am also getting an indicator that there is a problem with the Smart Entry System. My vehicle is currently in the shop and was told battery was dying slowly (had current battery for a lil over a month, and it would be $185.00 for a new battery) which I disagreed do to everything was still operational. The car just wouldn’t start and it was said I needed a new stater button replacement ($500.00) atbhe Honda dealership. Luckily my warranty will cove the starter replacement.
usually the main battery lasts for 2 years after that it must be replaced even if it is still working . When a weak battery tries to crank the engine , the output voltage will drop and lots of electronics does not like the supply dropping to around 8.5v , they may not go back /boot to correct condition. Lots of subsystems and the keyless entry is just one of them . There will also be problem when a new battery is installed , when the second terminal is put ( usually the Negative) and it was not a one time secure connection - cable was let to touch the terminal several times before the clamp was securely fastened - problems may occur - some subsystem may not have booted correctly bec of interrupted connection . This case the Negative cable just needs to be reseated . One sure touch to the battery terminal and secured .

as for the key battery - its in the manual - replace after 2 years with fresh one . Dont wait until the battery dies

noelmem5
 

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You can try contact cleaner and dielectric grease. I bought a new start button and installed it but then decided to clean the contacts on the old one with electronic cleaning spray, add dielectric grease, and then I reinstalled it. That was about 8 months ago and haven't had the light come back on. I still carry the new one in the car in case I ever need to replace it.
25 days later
$25 US for part on aliexpress
Did that even take 3 minutes to change, a couple screw drivers to pop off the panel
This forum is awesome, thanks everyone for all you do!
 

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Hi All! I made a video on how to clean our start-stop issues properly. Contact cleaner just on the pins isn't enough! The actual contacts that need cleaning are deep inside the switch assy. Check the video to see how it is done.

 

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Hi All! I made a video on how to clean our start-stop issues properly. Contact cleaner just on the pins isn't enough! The actual contacts that need cleaning are deep inside the switch assy. Check the video to see how it is done.

Nice video, frankly I was surprised just hosing down the connector did anything, so if it stops working again I'll be sure to follow your method!

Knock on wood, mine's been fine from just doing the connector and applying dielectric grease.
 

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The first time my drivers door switch failed, every time I got in the car I would get an error related to the keyless entry system. It would say something like key not present, even though it was in the car. It seemed to have something to do with the logic of the door switch.... If the door did not open don't look for a key? Something like that.

I know it's my answer for everything, but if you open the door do your interior lights come on instantly?
So what did you do to fix it. I can not unlock or lock driver door with key or button on inside or outside. Sometimes push start foes not work right away either. And key light comes on occasionally but not always. I have replace battery a few time, still no fix
 

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So what did you do to fix it. I can not unlock or lock driver door with key or button on inside or outside. Sometimes push start foes not work right away either. And key light comes on occasionally but not always. I have replace battery a few time, still no fix
Tried both keys?

I'd say check into replacing or cleaning the contacts on your start button, that's been a much more common problem you can do for very cheap if you're a little handy, but that shouldn't affect unlocking the door

Honestly since I had my door switches replaced I haven't seen anyone else with that problem, but it's possible. Sometimes in cold weather mine still stick, you know it because interior lights don't come on when the door opens

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I came upon this site to solve this very issue with the key light on my 2016 HRV. The light wouldn’t shut off even after changing the battery. So to try something simple, I held my key fob up to the key light on the gauge cluster before starting the car and proceeded to start and the light went away. Not sure if this was pure luck but it ended up working for me. Hope this works for some of you guys. Good luck
 

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I came upon this site to solve this very issue with the key light on my 2016 HRV. The light wouldn’t shut off even after changing the battery. So to try something simple, I held my key fob up to the key light on the gauge cluster before starting the car and proceeded to start and the light went away. Not sure if this was pure luck but it ended up working for me. Hope this works for some of you guys. Good luck
I did this too. It worked for about 2 days and then the light came back on. I hope you have better luck!! I still have not found a solution.
 

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I unfortunately am having the same issue. But when I keep trying either the car powers on withe the radio on or every indicator comes on the dash and flickers. My key Fob still locked the doors. So it can't be the battery because I had my new battery for a month and everythi.g else comes on. I only had my vehicle for 4 years. Before I could put the fob against the starter and the car would start right up but now it won't do that. Could it be the starter. I was on my way out for work and this happens
I have been having this issue for 1 year now. The dealership said it was my starter. They gave me a new starter (which wasnt covered under warranty). It was fine for about 10 months and then the issue came back even more problematic than before. I am now pressing the button about 10x before it starts. I took it in to the dealership and the warranty on the starter they put in was expired due to mileage. They diagnosed the vehicle and they said this time a different code came up so its not the part they installed. I am currently on DAY 35 of waiting for a new part to arrive at the dealership to replace the starter button with no warranty coverage.
 

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I have been having this issue for 1 year now. The dealership said it was my starter. They gave me a new starter (which wasnt covered under warranty). It was fine for about 10 months and then the issue came back even more problematic than before. I am now pressing the button about 10x before it starts. I took it in to the dealership and the warranty on the starter they put in was expired due to mileage. They diagnosed the vehicle and they said this time a different code came up so its not the part they installed. I am currently on DAY 35 of waiting for a new part to arrive at the dealership to replace the starter button with no warranty coverage.
I used an electronic cleaner and dielectric grease on the pins behind the start button and the light hasn't turned back on in about 8 months.
30833
 

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I own a 2016 HR-V EX. Doors respond to the remote fine. Three months ago, (with my foot on the brake) I noticed that the push button start did not turn the car on after a single push. Usually worked on the 2nd or 3rd try.

After a week of that, I disconnected the battery. Car started after a single press of the button. Eventually went back to the initial problem. I repeated this to see if I got the same result and sure enough, same phenomenon.

Three months down, it progressed to not even turning on after a repeated push (+5 or more) of the start button while the key was in my pocket. So I had to put the key up to the button and still press the button a few times.

There is a video of a guy who replaced his keyless access remote module on his Accord.

If this is the solution, the control unit is 300. (PN 38329-T7W-A02, used to be -A01) Afraid what the dealer will charge to install and reprogram if this in fact is the Issue. Anyone else have an issue like this? Wondering if there any other fixes like a fuse replacement that resolved the issue?

I'm beyond warranty at this point at 60K+.

Thanks for your input (in advance).

Dos
I own a 2017 Honda HR-V. I bought it brand new off the lot in 2017.
After 60,000 miles I had problems starting the vehicle. Initially, what had solved the issue was removing the plastic guard that helps protect the underside of the engine from water splashing upward. Fast forward to 70,000 miles, basic maintenance of replacing the alternator, battery and drive belt had been completed. However, at the 70,000 mile marker, I experienced starter problems again. I would push the ignition button receive a single, 'click' sound. Initially, it would take 2-3 tries before it fired up again. Progressively, the number of times I'd have to push the button to get the starter crank the engine was several tries. I replaced the starter with a brand new OEM one at 70,000 miles, twice. After the second brand new oem starter replacement, I noticed that the starter would not start if it was 70 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. At this point, I had taken the initiative myself to crawl under the car and inspect it to find out what could be causing what I believe is a heat-soak issue. I immediately noticed that Honda had designed the car so that the exhaust manifold, (the pipe that carries exhaust from your engine and out of your muffler), Honda had placed the exhaust manifold pipe not more than a few inches away from the Starter. The average temperature that an exhaust manifold will radiate is between 500 to 930 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, if you open up the Honda HR-V starter, it's very cheaply made. I has brittle plastic components that break very easily. Aside from the exposure to the exhaust manifold heat, the starter is being exposed to transmission and engine heat as well since it rests directly less than an inch away from the engine and transmission heat on the other side of the starter. Since the Honda dealership repeatedly failed in fixing the problem, I had to get creative and try to come up with a solution at least to the heat-soak issue. My Solution: I bought a ton of heat wrap material and wrapped my exhaust manifold to reduce heat being radiated in the direction of the starter. My results: This ended up dramatically reducing the amount of attempts it had taken to start the vehicle. Instead of a 1 out of 2 chance that it will fail to start and only click once, this time, after the heat-shield, there is only a 1 and 20 chance of the car not starting and only producing a single, 'click'.

Other Considerations:
I had to inspect a lot of the vehicle myself after receiving no help from Honda whatsoever. That said, I pulled the official diagrams by paying for access online. After carefully analyzing what I was looking at in the diagrams, I had done a full inspection of every single wire, electronic component, relay and fuse. I had taken detailed hi-res photos of all these components for research later on. This, in order to ensure that I left no stone unturned. I also inspected every single grounding wire for corrosion and poor contacts and then wire-brushed-cleaned and replaced as necessary. I wrapped the plastic shell of my engine's air intake with heat-shielding as well in an effort to help keep the engine and bay area as cool as possible while driving in summer heat. In summary to this 2nd paragraph, these are merely extra things that I've done to try to find a solution to the problem. I have only managed to reduce the frequency of a, 'no-start-single-click' scenario by doing the approach that I listed in the first paragraph of this post.

While the Honda HR-V is undoubtedly a great vehicle that still runs and sounds great after 168,000 miles, the starter issue is a constant annoyance and Honda can easily fix this if they wanted to. But of course, we all know they're not going to.


I hope this helps in some way,


Adam
 

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I've been having this issue for the past few months. I changed my battery in my fob, changed by car battery last month, and am still having this issue. I sometimes can get it to start easier by holding the fob close to the start button. The dashboard icon about low battery in the fob is on, and will actually intermittently go off every once in awhile. I called my dealership today finally to have them look at it, and prepared myself for the ugly bill I'd have to pay. They notified me that there's actually an extended warranty for specifically this issue. (I have the 2016 HR-V). If the diagnostics show the code associated with the known problem, they'll fix it for free! Might be worth getting a hold of your dealership on this one.
 

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I've been having this issue for the past few months. I changed my battery in my fob, changed by car battery last month, and am still having this issue. I sometimes can get it to start easier by holding the fob close to the start button. The dashboard icon about low battery in the fob is on, and will actually intermittently go off every once in awhile. I called my dealership today finally to have them look at it, and prepared myself for the ugly bill I'd have to pay. They notified me that there's actually an extended warranty for specifically this issue. (I have the 2016 HR-V). If the diagnostics show the code associated with the known problem, they'll fix it for free! Might be worth getting a hold of your dealership on this one.
First I've seen that mentioned here, good to know!

The fix in my garage took less time than going to the dealer, but would be nice for those who don't want to mess with it

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

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I own a 2017 Honda HR-V. I bought it brand new off the lot in 2017.
After 60,000 miles I had problems starting the vehicle. Initially, what had solved the issue was removing the plastic guard that helps protect the underside of the engine from water splashing upward. Fast forward to 70,000 miles, basic maintenance of replacing the alternator, battery and drive belt had been completed. However, at the 70,000 mile marker, I experienced starter problems again. I would push the ignition button receive a single, 'click' sound. Initially, it would take 2-3 tries before it fired up again. Progressively, the number of times I'd have to push the button to get the starter crank the engine was several tries. I replaced the starter with a brand new OEM one at 70,000 miles, twice. After the second brand new oem starter replacement, I noticed that the starter would not start if it was 70 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. At this point, I had taken the initiative myself to crawl under the car and inspect it to find out what could be causing what I believe is a heat-soak issue. I immediately noticed that Honda had designed the car so that the exhaust manifold, (the pipe that carries exhaust from your engine and out of your muffler), Honda had placed the exhaust manifold pipe not more than a few inches away from the Starter. The average temperature that an exhaust manifold will radiate is between 500 to 930 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, if you open up the Honda HR-V starter, it's very cheaply made. I has brittle plastic components that break very easily. Aside from the exposure to the exhaust manifold heat, the starter is being exposed to transmission and engine heat as well since it rests directly less than an inch away from the engine and transmission heat on the other side of the starter. Since the Honda dealership repeatedly failed in fixing the problem, I had to get creative and try to come up with a solution at least to the heat-soak issue. My Solution: I bought a ton of heat wrap material and wrapped my exhaust manifold to reduce heat being radiated in the direction of the starter. My results: This ended up dramatically reducing the amount of attempts it had taken to start the vehicle. Instead of a 1 out of 2 chance that it will fail to start and only click once, this time, after the heat-shield, there is only a 1 and 20 chance of the car not starting and only producing a single, 'click'.

Other Considerations:
I had to inspect a lot of the vehicle myself after receiving no help from Honda whatsoever. That said, I pulled the official diagrams by paying for access online. After carefully analyzing what I was looking at in the diagrams, I had done a full inspection of every single wire, electronic component, relay and fuse. I had taken detailed hi-res photos of all these components for research later on. This, in order to ensure that I left no stone unturned. I also inspected every single grounding wire for corrosion and poor contacts and then wire-brushed-cleaned and replaced as necessary. I wrapped the plastic shell of my engine's air intake with heat-shielding as well in an effort to help keep the engine and bay area as cool as possible while driving in summer heat. In summary to this 2nd paragraph, these are merely extra things that I've done to try to find a solution to the problem. I have only managed to reduce the frequency of a, 'no-start-single-click' scenario by doing the approach that I listed in the first paragraph of this post.

While the Honda HR-V is undoubtedly a great vehicle that still runs and sounds great after 168,000 miles, the starter issue is a constant annoyance and Honda can easily fix this if they wanted to. But of course, we all know they're not going to.


I hope this helps in some way,


Adam
2016 HRV 70,000 plus miles.
I had the "repeated push" problem with the START button plus the KEY idiot light coming on nearly every startup. Occasionally a DOOR OPEN light would join the parade. The starting problem went from occasional to often requiring multiple pushes. New fob batteries did not help.

Do look at the videos of how to dismantle the switch and clean the internal contacts. I did so and since doing the job, which was relatively simple and quick, the problems vanished.
 

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I've been having this issue for the past few months. I changed my battery in my fob, changed by car battery last month, and am still having this issue. I sometimes can get it to start easier by holding the fob close to the start button. The dashboard icon about low battery in the fob is on, and will actually intermittently go off every once in awhile. I called my dealership today finally to have them look at it, and prepared myself for the ugly bill I'd have to pay. They notified me that there's actually an extended warranty for specifically this issue. (I have the 2016 HR-V). If the diagnostics show the code associated with the known problem, they'll fix it for free! Might be worth getting a hold of your dealership on this one.
2016 HRV 70,000 plus miles.
I had the "repeated push" problem with the START button plus the KEY idiot light coming on nearly every startup. Occasionally a DOOR OPEN light would join the parade. The starting problem went from occasional to often requiring multiple pushes. New fob batteries did not help.

Do look at the videos of how to dismantle the switch and clean the internal contacts. I did so and since doing the job, which was relatively simple and quick, the problems vanished.
 
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