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Maintenance Minder Accuracy

Mildly concerned about the Maintenance Minder accuracy and affect on warranty. Purchased a new 2017 HRV in Oct 2017 but as of mid-July 2018 the maintenance minder is only at 40%. (Engine is about 5,500 miles). But it's so hot in Colorado this summer and by now that oil must have been sitting in the engine for 18 months.

I called the dealership where I bought it and got some kid on the phone in service who said "oh yeah, just follow the maintenance minder" but it seems really weird to me to wait so long. Comments, suggestions? Effect on warranty?
 

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If you think it has been 18 months with many sitting on the lot, then he’s go ahead and get an oil change. The start using the Minder in the future. Your warranty is still good.
 

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I know have 6,000 miles on my 2017 HRV EX, which I bought almost a year ago. Maintenance Minder still at 35%, but it's sooo hot along the Front Range, and the length of time that oil has been sitting in the crank, it must be deteriorating. I feel like I oughtta have it changed now.

Thoughts? Should I wait? Doesn't the Maintenance Minder know what the date is?
 

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The minder does not take into account time. All manufacturers will tell you to change the oil at a year. If you don't make the mileage amount.
 

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These temperatures are approximate.

In a running engine, oil in your ring zone and oil splashed on the underside of the piston is probably about 300 C

In a not-running engine, oil everywhere in your engine might be about 30 C in hot climates.

Remember that old chemistry rule that rates of reactions double every 10 C? So going from 30 C to 300 C means that reaction rates double 27 times. Take 5 $ and double it once to get 10 $, Then 20, 40, 80 160, 320, etc. Do that 27 times you've got a lot of money.

The lesson here is that the oil sitting in non-running engine (the time factor, not the mileage factor) is very chemically inert. Ain't nothing bad happening. Therefore the time factor does not really have to be included in the Maintenance Minder. Mileage, or running time, dominants the situation.

I think...................maybe..............
 

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I think the idea with old oil is that moisture accumulates in oil that has not been hot enough to boil it out. This can lead to rusting, which can add contaminants to your oil.

It's up to your individual risk tolerance. I know people that have never changed their oil and ran a car for 100k miles with no issue. For $30 it's not worth the risk to me
 

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I think the idea with old oil is that moisture accumulates in oil that has not been hot enough to boil it out. This can lead to rusting, which can add contaminants to your oil.

It's up to your individual risk tolerance. I know people that have never changed their oil and ran a car for 100k miles with no issue. For $30 it's not worth the risk to me

Correct… It's not about the oil sitting and being "inert"… It's about the condensation that gets in the oil when it sits and then you're not running the engine to burn it off. Hence rust and corrosion occurs. It's been written about 100,000 times at Bob is the oil guy.com and usually every owners manual tell you to get it out within one year if you're not driving it much. I drive 3000 to 5000 miles a year, so I change mine at nine months, a slight bit of overkill. I change the oil filter every other time, use an oil extractor, so no need to get underneath the car every time......When you're changing this regular, I also use a $17/gal conventional oil, no need for synthetic.
 

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If you know that you've got an extreme amount of water in the oil, take it out for a 10 km freeway drive. The crankcase ventilation system system will pull off the water.

No need for an oil change.

Combustion water is always present and oils contain very effective anti-rust additives.

I open up a lot of engines and haven't seen rust in a regularly used engine since I was a teenager in the early 1960s, and even then it was just a rusty lifter check valve.

Most probably the Maintenance Minder algorithms are entirely adequate, if short of perfect.
 

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Today is almost 12 months of 2017 ownership. Mileage 6200. Maintenance Minder at 30%.
I took the car to dealership I purchased at (Planet Honda, Golden, Colorado) and they paid for the first oil change and said yes it's time even though MM says 30%. From what I've read from here, it makes sense. Oil either breaks down over time or absorbs moisture (even in Colorado). Plus all those metal filings give me shivers.

If anyone else has experience with similar issues I'd love to hear.
 

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The dealership is using ADP or the constant contact program to "nag" you. The have no idea when you should come in, ****, they dont even know whats being sent out or care to.

Go by the minder, nothing else, your warranty is safe. But yes, oil should come out in a year, no matter what the mileage.
 
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Agree, I like my dealer/service but they recommend 5000 miles. But I come back with “why would Honda spend millions developing the MM algorithms/etc?” They don’t have an answer. In the long term, not a money issue with me but rather just using Honda’s onboard tools like the MM.
 

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Agree, I like my dealer/service but they recommend 5000 miles. But I come back with “why would Honda spend millions developing the MM algorithms/etc?” They don’t have an answer. In the long term, not a money issue with me but rather just using Honda’s onboard tools like the MM.
The mm is a great idea and really a boon to those that treat the car as an appliance. It is really thought out well, on the accord site is a 5 page technical doc of how they designed it. They only forgot the time element, others have put it in. On my camaro, I parked it for 6 months and to start , it read 90%, 6 mos later, it was 40%.
 
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Is there any "official" word as to recommended intervals for tire balance, rotation and wheel alignment??
Because the monitor does not tell you that. After 37k miles, I only had the oil replacement warning.
I don't go to the dealer for service and those guys are the last people on earth I would ask for maintenance suggestions.
My local mechanic does oil change, filter, brakes but doesn't have the alignment machine.
 

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rotate every 5k........
 

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Unless you damage a tire/rim, or notice tread pattern irregularities, I don't see a reason to proactively balance or align your car.

I rotate at every oil change usually, as long as it is at consistent intervals my tire guy told me that was fine
 

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Is there any "official" word as to recommended intervals for tire balance, rotation and wheel alignment??
Because the monitor does not tell you that. After 37k miles, I only had the oil replacement warning.
I don't go to the dealer for service and those guys are the last people on earth I would ask for maintenance suggestions.
My local mechanic does oil change, filter, brakes but doesn't have the alignment machine.

Tire balance if there is vibration. In the front it will come up the steering wheel, in the rear the whole car shakes.



Rotation when you see the front tires wearing the shoulders more than the back tires. If inner and outer shoulders do not wear approx. the same, see alignment.



Alignment if: 1. You hit something with a wheel seriously hard -- not just normal nudge the curb, etc. 2. Steering wheel is off center. (1 will typically cause 2.) 3. Pull to one side that does not change if tires are moved around. 4. Uneven tire wear. Years ago in an alignment seminar for us auto techs the instructor asked "What is the number one cause of mis-aligned wheels?" Answers were hitting potholes, etc. Instructor said "Number one cause of mis-aligned wheels is...WHEEL ALIGNMENTS." A wheel alignment from Brake Check or the like probably means the car would have been better off left alone. No, you do NOT need an alignment because tires were replaced. Tire replacement will not change alignment unless the car was aligned with tires of grossly uneven heights. If old tires wore reasonably even, leave a good alignment alone!



Don in Austin

































alignment if there is uneven tire
 

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Really, really helpful, Don. I finally understand those terms and what to do about them. My previous car care shop made tire maintenance stuff really confusing. They often suggested alignments without specifying why and I wasn’t aware of symptoms suggesting the work.

I am very satisfied with the shop that now cares for my HRV; they are thorough and very careful to give advice with thorough explanations, they do effective maintenance in one visit with no problems arising after time on the lift, and any needed repairs would be done with complete attention and fair pricing (so far no fixing needed beyond one warranty claim handled well by dealer service). And my car is kept remarkably clean when I get it back. The whole shop is orderly and clean. I have to imagine that the place I’m using is giving the kind of expertise and attention that I’d have for my car if I were nearer to use your own shop.

I take much better care of my car when I get information like you’ve provided, making better decisions and a stronger willingness to spend money when I understand what’s really needed. This HRV is a much more complicated and full featured car than I’ve ever owned. I’m gaining owner confidence by reading forum entries with full information about diagnostics and care options. Thanks!
 
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