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How do you avoid getting oil on the ground when changing the filter? If you use a pan, then why not use the pan for both oil and filter?
Very simple ....a trick that I've been using for 20 years. Especially with the vertical filter like this... get a tall kitchen garbage bag, loosen the filter to where there's only one or two threads left, put the bag around the filter all the way up , from the outside of the bag, feel the filter and spin it until it falls into the bag, no mess…i Have an old quilt that I lay down in the whole area that catches maybe the one or two drops the fall from the filter after its off.....good to do, valve or tray method.
 
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get a tall kitchen garbage bag, loosen the filter to where there's only one or two threads left, put the bag around the filter all the way up , from the outside of the bag, feel the filter and spin it until it falls into the bag,
I used Glen’s trash bag trick for the oil filter worked great, nice tip.

The service manual said to run up the temp on the engine prior to changing the oil, I did not do the technique they described but did get the temp up to operating range before starting.

The oil drain plug size in 17 mm (see photo)

The oil drain plug torque is 30 Ft lb (be sure to replace the 14mm crush washer part # 94109-14000)

OEM filter tightening guide works perfect and just makes it simple to do exactly ¾ turn as described in the service manual. (see photos)

This aftermarket oil wrench works perfect AC1084/W54117 (See photo)

The service manual states 3.9 quarts…I did 4 and it’s just a touch short of where the dipstick pattern ends.
 

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Valves are worth it if you don't want to spill a drop. Also you'll never cross thread a plug again I change my oil in a condo garage so it's very important that I don't splash or get any oil on the ground in my parking spot. allows me to drain directly into a 1 gallon milk jug to complete disposal at the auto parts store. No muss, no fuss. If you are changing where you don't care, and you can pour the big tray into a Nother receptacle and it doesn't bother you if you splash a bit, then you don't need to do it. Fumoto's are great, the hi-end valve is a german stahlbus brand , google it. Also, always wear nitrile gloves when changing oil, used oil is carcinogenic.
Glen e, did you add that white elbow to the Fumoto valve or did it come with it?
If you added it, could you please provide size details?
 

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Comes with it, visit the fumoto site for full details....
 

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2019 HR-V EX
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Hi Guys,

Just got under our 2019 EX to change the oil for the first time. (MM triggered the message at 5100 miles)

Lo and behold, THE ENTIRE ENGINE UNDERTRAY IS MISSING!!

Did they eliminate this on new cars, or did a dealer 'steal' ours for someone else's car? Having a difficult time seeing if it is on the parts call-out of HondaPartsDeals...

The front three fasteners are in place and look un-molested...
 

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No tray with AWD
 
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No tray with AWD
Yup, found that out when I dug deeper into the parts lists.

The "Cover, Engine (lower)" is under Front Fenders in the BODY section. Only listed for FWD.
 

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For those who don't do their own oil changes, do you go back to the dealership to do it or somewhere else, ie., Midas, Sears Auto or local place? Wrench just came on, 15%. Leasing our 2018 HR-V AWD.
 

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I use a jiffy lube that allows me in the service stall to watch. I Bring the filter and they fill with Mobil 1....
 
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I understand that the engine oil life is determined by how you drive, but would it be smart enough to know if I was using something like mobil 1 annual protection that is supposed to be good for up to 20,000 miles, or any type of extended mileage oil? Or if I use something like that, should I just keep track of the mileage and disregard what the car tells me?
 

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I understand that the engine oil life is determined by how you drive, but would it be smart enough to know if I was using something like mobil 1 annual protection that is supposed to be good for up to 20,000 miles, or any type of extended mileage oil? Or if I use something like that, should I just keep track of the mileage and disregard what the car tells me?
The monitoring systim is not testing the oil for quality- it has no idea what condition the oil is in- its more of calculated formula based upon runtime and miles etc.
I find that i get about 5000 miles before I am at close to 0% etc.- yet i use that mobil 1 oil. I Generally change every 6-7 months on the daily driver because i believe in the old contamination method, where the products of combustion, blow buy etc and daily use is also a factor of the oils ability to function properly.
If you go a year -I bet the MM comes on way before 12 months is up.
 

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At 15% I'm over 10k miles, which is a lot. I use full synthetic and "upgraded" filters, and the oil comes out pretty dark. No matter what the oil bottle says I probably wouldn't push 20k even for highway only miles, not worth the risk for $30 in supplies and an hour every couple months

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I didn't even get 4500 before the oil change "warning" popped up. I probably could've gone to 5k by the time the MM hit 0, but that reminder was starting to annoy me.

On the Fit, I got 6000. And for the entire 167k miles on that Fit, there was only one (maybe two) time I didn't hit 6k per oil change... and that was during my road trip. I think that one stretched past 7500 miles. It was an 11k mile road trip. I don't remember when I did my previous oil change before the trip, but I do remember passing the 6k mark during it, when I got to San Diego (start at Chicago to Salt Lake City, Pikes Peak, Vancouver, San Francisco, then San Diego). But the MM wasn't even close to triggering the warning. But I figured it wouldn't wait until I got back to Chicago (via Las Vegas, Houston & NYC), so I did an oil change there, since I was at my sister's place. After the road trip, the MM took a while to pop too.

Honestly, I think 20k is doable. I mean, on the Fit forum, some folks claim their oil change interval is 18k miles with the MM. So I don't see 20k being that much different... But then again, if I'm getting 4500, who knows.
 

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I know some folks that still change every 3000 miles with full synthetic. I just shake my head!
 

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I’ll never get over how much chatter is on all the hobby sites about oil changes. ...change it via the mm, or choose a round number (I like 5000) and put in ANY major brand quality oil that meets the owners manual specs.

ask yourself: Have you ever read a post on any site that says “I changed my oil with a good brand and my engine blew up what do I do now?” I have’nt. Ever. Even on BITOG.COM
dealers will never check what kind of oil is in the car, as long as there’s enuf and it pours. Because warranty won’t pay for an oil analysis.

pick a number or the mm, use a good oil (syn or Dino) and go for 200k...
 
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