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My HR-V is about three years old with 58600 miles. I thought it was about time to replace the brake pads (it wasn't, as it still had about 40% friction material left in it), BUT I made an interesting discovery about the HR-V rear brakes.

Here's a video that may be helpful in rewinding the rear brake pistons when new pads need to be put in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZFx_l3nFvY.
I used to Use my Thumbs to push back the calipir Lol, What i do now is keep the same old Pad on and use the C-Clamp do a lot less damage t othe calipar. which can get cocked that way .;)

SIte needs a embedding for youtube vid VS-Team.
 

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Agreed. They make special tools to retract the caliper piston but the old pad & c-clamp combination works fine. I have done it that way for years and even glued a small pad to one of my c-clamps to make it a dedicated tool. Saves the effort of holding the pad in place while tightening the clamp.
 

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Did anyone ever post the "Maintenance Mode" engagement process from the manual?


On our other car with electronic parking brakes, the motor doesn't back off all the way as the pads wear. This is a good thing, as that diminishes the time it takes for the parking brake to 'grab'.


But the issue with EPBs begins when fitting thicker, new pads, then the motor doesn't retract the caliper piston sufficiently. On that other car, folks can do the repair but the Maintenance Mode makes the process WAY easier.


@ras954's post #19 was great but it doesn't specifically address if this is an issue.
 

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Did anyone ever post the "Maintenance Mode" engagement process from the manual?
On our other car with electronic parking brakes, the motor doesn't back off all the way as the pads wear. This is a good thing, as that diminishes the time it takes for the parking brake to 'grab'.
But the issue with EPBs begins when fitting thicker, new pads, then the motor doesn't retract the caliper piston sufficiently. On that other car, folks can do the repair but the Maintenance Mode makes the process WAY easier.
@ras954's post #19 was great but it doesn't specifically address if this is an issue.
CarBuff, once you use the T-45 Torx bit to fully retract the pressure your totally good to go to push the piston back all the way into the caliper.

Then after putting in the new pads and doing the parking break 2 cycle on/off I mentioned previously the electric motor will adjust itself perfectly.

There is no need for any sort of maintenance mode work at all to do this job on the HRV.
 

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I'd still like to see the procedure for engaging the Maintenance Mode. In that other car it is no more than pressing a few buttons (in a convoluted order, LOL).


If it requires the Honda diagnostic tool/system, that is different.Regardless , I thank you for the DIY again. :D
 

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RAS954, how are the new rotors and pads? i will be doing my rear rotors soon, strange grooves on the driver side. The front rotors are fine so there must be a problem with the rear design.
Bchan42
I had issues with my rear rotors wearing grooves mainly on rear passenger side, replace the rotors and pads and they were good for a week and then the right rear caliper went out at 47K, it was replaced and the EPB module had to also be replaced. my 2016 HRV now has 57k and the left rear caliper went out on the highway and messed up the left rear rotor. had to replace the left rear caliper and rotor.

Logged a complaint with Honda and was informed its normal wear and its my fault as i had aftermarket rotors on the vehicle causing the issues.


I think Honda put a bad lot of brake parts on the 2016 HRV and will not admit it until enough people file official complaints with the NHTSA https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/


Hope you have better luck with your breaks than I did. But keep an eye on the calipers....
 

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Made the jump and order the Power Stop K2370 Z23 kit from Amazon, not sure why but when I was looking it was going for $69.00 for rotors and pads, today it is back to 112.19.


the instructions in this thread all were great. When I took the caliper off, I found out why the brakes were doing what it was doing, both sets of pads were frozen to the slides, no movement at all and I had to use a hammer to knock the pads out. The new pads are slightly better but there is too much interference with the slides, I put everything back together because I have to drive it today, but will probably taken it all apart to give the pads some more movement. I'm thinking this is caused by the corrosion / rust on the calipers even though the fronts are working fine. Anyone have clues to why this is happening?
 

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On other Hondas, the caliper metal corrodes UNDER the stainless steel clips/slides. You take the slides off, file the metal, then apply brake grease before re-fitting the SS clips.


Sometimes with aftermarket pads, you need to file the edges of the backing plates, too. Goal is to have them 'falling-out' loose.


The rears seem to pose issues first because 1. they are in road spray/salt and 2. the rear brakes never get as hot as the fronts (so the bits retain water).
 

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On other Hondas, the caliper metal corrodes UNDER the stainless steel clips/slides. You take the slides off, file the metal, then apply brake grease before re-fitting the SS clips.


Sometimes with aftermarket pads, you need to file the edges of the backing plates, too. Goal is to have them 'falling-out' loose.


The rears seem to pose issues first because 1. they are in road spray/salt and 2. the rear brakes never get as hot as the fronts (so the bits retain water).
That's what I am thinking. The old ones were so jammed that I had to pound them out. I will work on them this weekend. Thanks
 

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Got around to freeing up the pads on Monday. Took just over a half hour to do, filed down the slides and the pads are free!!. The corrosion was thick but came off easily. Is there any way to prevent this from happening again? Or will this be a check and clean up every other year or so.
 

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Salt-belt dealers recommend doing this every 'brake service' yearly....


The brake grease under the SS will reduce the corrosion. A TSB on CR-Vs back in '05(?) said to use the MolyKote brake grease that Honda includes with OEM pad kits.
 

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The video was great, something to be aware of, not sure if the dealer is feeding me a line. I had to replace rear brakes and rotors at 48k on a 206 HRV 6MT since the sounding like they were grinding and the rotors were pitted and not worn properly. Replaced both and used the video above to get them on and off. Breaks work great and no issues. A week later, I park the car, still running and engage the parking break, return and the break will not disengage, the Break System, PARK and (P)! lights come on and stay on. Tried disconnecting the battery to reset the system, no luck. They finally released about 20 minutes later and I took it to the Honda dealer.



Dealer Service reps told me that the right rear electronic caliper needs to be replaced because I did not take it to the shop to have the brakes and rotors done at the shop. Was informed that "you need to put the electronic system into Maintenance Mode to do anything on the rear brakes" can only do this with Honda maintenance software.



Not sure if I believe the dealer's explanation since i was having issues with the rear brakes before, (pulsing rough grinding breaking) just no warning indicators


Figure I would throw out what the dealer informed me incase there is some truth to it
Hey it definitely is a complex system. I am noticing this trend among the more advanced vehicles. I think manufacturers want you to only go to them so you spend more. I literally replaced my rear brakes yesterday. I am fortunate enough that the high school I teach in has an Auto Shop class. The students replaced it for me but they did say that the parking light and everything kept going off. The remedy they did with supervision from teacher is disconnect the brake sensors. After putting the new brakes in they reconnected it and the light would go on but it went away after 10 minutes. They rechecked to make sure even the parking was working and it does. Just a heads up
 

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Still waiting for someone to post the procedure for placing the EPB into Maintenance Mode. :unsure:
Found a PDF service manual on Reddit, and it looks like it does require the HDS to put it in maintenance mode. From the way it sounds, though all maintenance mode does is use the EPB module to fully release the pressure from the caliper rather than doing it manually with the module removed. If done manually, it also recommends you replace the two mounting screws and the o-ring when reattaching. To adjust the EPB, apply the parking brake, press the pedal down, and the release it.

Here's a link to the Reddit thread with the PDF: https://www.reddit.com/r/HRV/comments/akond2 Rear brake procedure starts on pg 1435
 

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Found a PDF service manual on Reddit, and it looks like it does require the HDS to put it in maintenance mode. From the way it sounds, though all maintenance mode does is use the EPB module to fully release the pressure from the caliper rather than doing it manually with the module removed. If done manually, it also recommends you replace the two mounting screws and the o-ring when reattaching. To adjust the EPB, apply the parking brake, press the pedal down, and the release it.

Here's a link to the Reddit thread with the PDF: https://www.reddit.com/r/HRV/comments/akond2 Rear brake procedure starts on pg 1435
Thank you! This is a great resource for those who do their own maintenance.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I can't seem to download it or even get it to load completely on my phone or laptop. They're both pretty quick and so is my internet. It hangs on chrome and Microsoft edge browsers on the PC and Opera browser on my phone.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I can't seem to download it or even get it to load completely on my phone or laptop. They're both pretty quick and so is my internet. It hangs on chrome and Microsoft edge browsers on the PC and Opera browser on my phone.
I had the same problem. Just be patient. It is not a particularly large file (132MB) but is almost 6000 pdf pages so maybe that is why it takes so long. I think the speed issue is on the server side.
 
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