Rear Brake Pad Replacement FYI

SlowFosho said:

Thanks for sharing. I can't seem to download it or even get it to load completely on my phone or laptop. They're both pretty quick and so is my internet. It hangs on chrome and Microsoft edge browsers on the PC and Opera browser on my phone.

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ras954 said:

Rear Pads and Rotor replacement process

I replaced my back brake pads and rotors this morning with aftermarket Powerstop kit K7340.

A few pointers:

The release tab on the electric break coupling is simply pushed back with you thumb to release the connector (see photo).

When using the T-45 Torx to back off the pressure on the caliper piston, turn it clockwise like your tightening it (see photo).

I used a ratchet with ¼ “ socket and a T-30 Torx to remove the electric motor with ease, this gives you way more torque and control than a driver handle with the Torx.

Removing the brake line retaining bolt allows the entire caliper to rest safe on the floor with no strain at all on the break line…made it real simple to work on the electric motor removal.

Here are the bolt sizes and torque levels.

19 mm lugs nuts 80 ft/lb
12 mm bolt for brake line holder
13 mm flange bolts 26 ft/lb while holding caliper pins with 17 mm open end wrench
17 mm Caliper bracket bolts 80 ft/lb

Loosening the old rotors off the hubs was done using two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts turned 90 degrees (see photo).

The philips head screw that holds on the rotor was loosened with an impact driver then ratchet with philips head from the impact driver.

There is no need to do any sort of maintenance mode anything. After your all done pump brakes a bit to get pistons back out.

Activate the electric parking brake (it will wind out longer than typical). Then (with engine running) cycle the electric brake twice, light on dash goes off and everything is back to normal.

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sanpablo said:

picture of right rear rotor before pad.rotor replacement

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Goobers said:

Not to be a forum nazi or anything... but I usually find it a little less annoying when you keep things to the same one post, instead of four short posts in a row. And it doesn't really make sense to quote your own previous post that is immediately before your current post.

If no one has posted anything since my last post, I'll usually just edit it and add to it.

But, that's just my opinion.

edit: i hope you had the rotor re-surfaced, that's some grooving going on. While a groove is great for music and dancing... it's not for braking.

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hikendan said:

To edit your post, click on those 3 gray dots in the upper right hand corner, then click edit

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Snltks81 said:

So for the rear pads, do you wind both calipers back with torx bit, or is it just for the specific rotor with the e brake motor? I am needing to replace my rear pads, and am trying to see what all I need to get the job done. And if I also understand correctly, I need a special clamp to rotate the cylinder when compressing? Any help is greatly appreciated and I'm sorry if this answer is another thread.

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ras954 said:

Rear Pads and Rotor replacement process

I replaced my back brake pads and rotors this morning with aftermarket Powerstop kit K7340.

A few pointers:

The release tab on the electric break coupling is simply pushed back with you thumb to release the connector (see photo).

When using the T-45 Torx to back off the pressure on the caliper piston, turn it clockwise like your tightening it (see photo).

I used a ratchet with ¼ “ socket and a T-30 Torx to remove the electric motor with ease, this gives you way more torque and control than a driver handle with the Torx.

Removing the brake line retaining bolt allows the entire caliper to rest safe on the floor with no strain at all on the break line…made it real simple to work on the electric motor removal.

Here are the bolt sizes and torque levels.

19 mm lugs nuts 80 ft/lb
12 mm bolt for brake line holder
13 mm flange bolts 26 ft/lb while holding caliper pins with 17 mm open end wrench
17 mm Caliper bracket bolts 80 ft/lb

Loosening the old rotors off the hubs was done using two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts turned 90 degrees (see photo).

The philips head screw that holds on the rotor was loosened with an impact driver then ratchet with philips head from the impact driver.

There is no need to do any sort of maintenance mode anything. After your all done pump brakes a bit to get pistons back out.

Activate the electric parking brake (it will wind out longer than typical). Then (with engine running) cycle the electric brake twice, light on dash goes off and everything is back to normal.

Click to expand...

SlowFosho said:

I replaced the brakes on my HRV a week ago. I followed the instructions in the video for the rear brakes and so far I haven't had any issues (knock on wood).

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Michael613 said:

I just wanted to update this thread with an alternative solution that I recently came across.

Autel is one of the biggest names in the game when it comes to automotive diagnostics.

They sell this obd tool for $62US on Amazon called the AP200. Also available on Amazon.ca for $100CAD. There's currently a 10% coupon on Amazon US so make sure to apply that to make it $55.80.

Using the tool and their phone app, you can put the electronic brake calipers into maintenance mode - just like the dealer. There's a review on Amazon from someone who said it worked on their 2016 civic and I confirmed with their customer service that this feature is available for our HRV.

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Scanner-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF

There are a few catches:
You get to register only one free car manufacturer when installing their phone app so we'd select Honda. If ever you change phones, you lose the registration and will have to pay $21.99/year

You can also use it with other car brands that may be compatible but that'll cost $21.99/year since you only get one free registration per device.

As long as you don't change phones, the registration will remain free for life.

If interested in all the other things it can do and all the brands it's compatible with, select "AP200M" from this list: Vehicle Coverage | AUTEL


View attachment 31045

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Sol said:

I have 3 different models of Honda (HR-V, Pilot, and S2000). Will one registration work for all 3?

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Michael613 said:

Yes, one registration will work for all 3 Honda models.

I checked the compatibility list and Pilot / S2000 are on there.

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