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@Sol, when you give it a test run - could you please check if it's capable of showing the CVT temperature?

I thought the cheap OBD readers were able to do it but I was wrong.
I received the AP200 OBDII scan tool today and tried it out on my HR-V and Pilot. The user interface of the app is not quite ready for prime time so it will take a bit of getting used to. Overall I would say that this device is worth the investment and will come in handy. It is certainly the most comprehensive scan tool that I have and measures every parameter imaginable, including CVT temperature. Attached is a file of the live data that I recorded today. The car was cold sitting outside in freezing temps for the past few days and the readings were taken after 5 minutes of idling so the CVT temp was colder then normal. The brake bleeding function looks interesting and I'll it out in a few months when the weather is warmer.
 

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I received the AP200 OBDII scan tool today and tried it out on my HR-V and Pilot. The user interface of the app is not quite ready for prime time so it will take a bit of getting used to. Overall I would say that this device is worth the investment and will come in handy. It is certainly the most comprehensive scan tool that I have and measures every parameter imaginable, including CVT temperature. Attached is a file of the live data that I recorded today. The car was cold sitting outside in freezing temps for the past few days and the readings were taken after 5 minutes of idling so the CVT temp was colder then normal. The brake bleeding function looks interesting and I'll it out in a few months when the weather is warmer.
Today I changed the front and rear brake pads on my 2016 LX AWD. At 31,500 miles the pads seemed to be 50% worn. The AP200 OBDII scan tool was useful for retracting the electronic parking brake mechanism without removing it from the rear brake caliper assembly. After the job was done, I used the scan tool to re-engage the parking brake. Other than that, the brake job was the same as any other disc brake replacement I have done on other Hondas. I also changed the brake fluid but did not use the scanner function since I bought a vacuum brake bleeder from HF Tools that worked very well. Also used that tool to suck out the fluid from the reservoir instead of using the turkey baster.
 

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Rear Pads and Rotor replacement process

I replaced my back brake pads and rotors this morning with aftermarket Powerstop kit K7340.

A few pointers:

The release tab on the electric break coupling is simply pushed back with you thumb to release the connector (see photo).

When using the T-45 Torx to back off the pressure on the caliper piston, turn it clockwise like your tightening it (see photo).

I used a ratchet with ¼ “ socket and a T-30 Torx to remove the electric motor with ease, this gives you way more torque and control than a driver handle with the Torx.

Removing the brake line retaining bolt allows the entire caliper to rest safe on the floor with no strain at all on the break line…made it real simple to work on the electric motor removal.

Here are the bolt sizes and torque levels.

19 mm lugs nuts 80 ft/lb
12 mm bolt for brake line holder
13 mm flange bolts 26 ft/lb while holding caliper pins with 17 mm open end wrench
17 mm Caliper bracket bolts 80 ft/lb

Loosening the old rotors off the hubs was done using two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts turned 90 degrees (see photo).

The philips head screw that holds on the rotor was loosened with an impact driver then ratchet with philips head from the impact driver.

There is no need to do any sort of maintenance mode anything. After your all done pump brakes a bit to get pistons back out.

Activate the electric parking brake (it will wind out longer than typical). Then (with engine running) cycle the electric brake twice, light on dash goes off and everything is back to normal.
Ras954, excellent write up and very well explained. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to post up.
 

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Hi folks



I am in the process of replacing the rotors (pitted and rusted) in the back of my 2016 HRV.

I did the same on my wife's 2015 BMW X3 and the process seems to be the same even the torx bit is the same size.
People at the forums had complains that teh got warnings and the emergency brake would not engage but I did mine and i had no issues whatsoever.

It has been like 3 weeks and the car is working fine.


I have the rotors and pads on order and I will be doing it myself. FYI here is my rear right rotor pitted and all rusted:


Regards


Nick
Thanks Nick. This goes out everyone on the forum, any help or insight would be very appreciated. I have a 2016 AWD and Gas Automotive lighting Auto part Font Metal
Camera accessory Font Cameras & optics Jewellery Metal
Automotive tire Bumper Finger Rim Automotive wheel system
I overtightened the bolts holding the parking brake actuator, cracked the plastic, and now I'm looking for a replacement. Mine looks identical to the one in your picture. The number stamped into it is 32353351, and under that is stamped the word, Germany. The other information on it is TRW PBT GF30. There's also a sticker with 32353351B. I'll try to include pictures in this post as well. Searching online, I'm wondering if this actuator is also found in other makes and models because a searching those numbers on google results very similar looking parts for Audi, Mercedes and the Honda Odyssey. I'm also wondering if there's a difference between the rear left and right, if anyone knows that info? BTW the rear right actuator still engages and hold car okay -but I don't feel good about it. Brake System Light, and blinking red parking brake light flashing on the dashboard. Thank you in advance everyone!!
Gas Automotive lighting Auto part Font Metal
Camera accessory Font Cameras & optics Jewellery Metal
Automotive tire Bumper Finger Rim Automotive wheel system
 

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As noted above
You DO NOT need to put car in maintenance mode to do the rear brakes. That is one way to do it if you have the computer module from Honda. This is how the dealers are trying to stop people from doing their own work.
The key to avoiding the E brake or Park issue is once every thing is installed you need to reset the Park/E brake by cycling the system, engaging the E brake a few times before driving the car. This recalibrates the caliper with the electronic parking brake motor. That’s on the back of the caliper.
I am assuming if this is not done not only will theE brake not hold well, it throws off the computer and then sets off all the warning lights. I am not sure but would think that if you disconect the battery. Go through the brake replacement process again as if doing brakes again. Then cycling the Park / E brake it would wind the caliper piston in and then be calibrated. Re hook battery. This should clear everything out and hopefully you are back in business. It’s also possible you may be able to have the fault code cleared at an AutoZone type parts store with the OBD if the codes don’t clear out.
 
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