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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought by AWD HRV to replace my TSX for daily use and in hopes that I could use it for camping and some soft roading locals trails etc. And while through luck or alot of really good patch work I havent needed to use a spare in many years and the better part of a half million miles. I would have to guess as I drive about 2500 miles a month and I can't remember needing one. The AWD thankfully comes with a full diameter spare, but its half width and doesn't work at highway speeds. Since I've helped other people changed to spares that turned out to be flat, I would then have to also inflate and sometimes patch, I wanted to buy a 5th wheel and tire and rotate it in every 5,000 miles to make sure it stayed ready to use. Unfortunately a full rim with AT tire and tire is both too wide and too tall for the floor to lie flat without a wheel or something else to carry cargo loads on. While I am considering other options for a 5th wheel and tire outside the wheel well I tried to see what I could do with it.

One option is the European model tray that replaces the spare entirely - they use a tire patch and inflate kit instead and add a storage tray like this.

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Another option I have, is to do like I did on my tsx, remove the tire mounts under the cover and then have a custom upholsterer lay down a layer of mat and a layer of commercial grade auto carpet.

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I could probably still put the factory spare back and use the cover over it, while being able to quickly remove both and replace them with several items I carry often. The first being my jansport https://amzn.to/2INGcgn ready bag, which fits flush now. I could probably get 3 in there?

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I also have a Herschel bag I sometimes use because it's the same design but made from Cordura. Its hard to fit my first aid kits in the outside pocket though.

My Monoprice cases https://amzn.to/2INGcgn which carries a pistol for range / training use - I sometimes travel between CA and NV for that and would prefer to be discreet when stopping etc - I had a second case with supporting items that I could fit both wide and tall net to each other but lifted the lid .5 inches
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And my bigger Pelican 1600 https://amzn.to/2IQ6AGI which sits on top of the tire supports as it and sits the lid 2 inches higher

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I'm not quite sure exactly what to do but since these cases can both carry alot of weight I am thinking about removing the supports, carpeting and then putting 1 inch tall by 2 inch wide strips of high density foam around the edges of the floor board by gluing strips of velcro to the underside so they can be detachable?

Or something far more ambitious by gluing the foam down to create support for the lid but areas for things like a real jack, some tools, my ready bag etc.

There are a couple of options that are even large that I haven't tried



This one which is thin enough


and these two which are probably the biggest without modification I can drop in, take out easy



If anyone has any other ides LMK - I'm not trying to smuggle contraband etc, I'd just like to be able to pull up for lunch on the road and not advertise.

I'm leaning heavily towards making a thin carpet, making the pelican 1600 fit and squeezing in a mini jack and the tire patching etc parts around it and leaving it there all the time.
 

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What you are thinking and saying makes no sense to me. The center hub (or knockout) on a wheel has never been used and never will to “center” a wheel (except in race cars), as there is no way to lubricate it. As for you spare…I think the best spot for it is in the wheel well. It sounds like you are thinking of putting it in the cargo area. That area gets used often., and is secure enough with tinted windows and a hard cargo cover. I think a full diameter spare is good enough for 50 miles of use every 5 years. Unless an even more secure area is important to you and you want to show others how impractical you are
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Huh? of course the wheel are centered off the hub - when you buy aftermarket wheels they often have a standard bore and require the use of bore centric rings that match the specific vehicle to that rim. TSW has one of the more concise definitions of this requirement. If you look at the back of any wheel I've seen the hub is beveled to guide the wheel to center.

"Hub centric rings are rings that cover the spacing between the center bore of an aftermarket wheel to the hub of the vehicle. In certain cases aftermarket wheels usually have a standard center bore size to accommodate a wide variety of vehicles. There are different sizes of hub centering rings and they are measured in millimeters which are available through the dealer who sold the wheels. Hub centric rings are important because they secure the wheel in place, and they ensure that the wheels are perfectly centered on the vehicle’s hub. This helps to prevent any type of vibration issue."


Every pair of rims I've ever bought from tire rack comes with these rings, whether they were for my s2000, Pilot or Ridgeline - or any of the other 20+ Hondas I've owned. Also lube changes tq values, you would never use it between a wheel and hub as it could get between the matting surfaces.

I don't care for tinted windows as they reduce visibility and are a cop magnet, also the cargo cover intrudes on the height of the cargo area obviously which is often packed roof to ceiling.

I'm not sure exactly where I will put the spare however in going from 26.3 inch standard tires to 27.6 inch AT tires I would need a larger tire anyway for the AWD to function properly, so it will have to go outside the well or I would need fabrication. I am thinking of using the spare kit in town and putting it in the cargo area for desert trips, or getting a roof rack for a spare tire carrier off the tow hitch, which I could also use for a mt bike.
 

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I keep a $1500 drone in a pelican box behind the driver seat. The privacy glass does a fine job of protecting it. Absolutely no one can see it. I don’t think privacy glass on the sides in the back of an SUV is in any way, shape, or form a safety problem.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Leaving anything of value in the back of a car in socal unattended is foolish, last night I watched a group of people talking around my car at my local pizza place start peeking into the windows, an unfortunate side effect of the shift in city policy that has brought in drug dealers and the tweakers they serve. We also now have porch pirates and several cars have come up missing registration and other items on my block, I've even noticed finger prints on my rear door handles now a couple times after they were just cleaned. I keep my ready bag behind the passenger seat but remove it every night.

Privacy glass is typically 5% - I don't see how blocking 95% of what you could see out of those windows all the time is not a safety issue, I understand why people do it but there are too many road sprinters around these days. Also it's alot faster for the tweakers to smash the glass in than try to look through it at night.


I used to have a small fleet of vehicles that did executive transportation and we had a special window coating that acted like 1 way glass but the vehicles were registered in a state where it was legal. I'll probably be moving to middle Florida and then new Hampshire in the next year so that might all change.
 

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Just put a black cloth over any cargo you want to hide. No one will be able to see if there is anything through the privacy glass in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I do have some dark grey kind of velvet for when I sleep in the back, but I don't want to tint the windows - I also found out driving my dads car cross country a few months ago - going through border control between some states is so much easier when they can look right into the back, I started rolling down the front windows even. Next year I plan to travel quite a bit more with firearms, which I disassemble for travel so as to not technically be classified as weapons. Unfortunately civil forfeiture laws and just broke ass cops make some of the stuff I travel with tempting to confiscate and disappear - also California laws are pretty arcane and I always want to be on the right side of them - but I am not going to tell a police officer there is a weapon in the car if it's in a condition to that makes it non functioning. Last weekend I actually talked with some friends who are LEO and one of them suggested that I now even remove the bolts and put them in the glove box completely separate, so I am doing that as well.

I think it's gone off the rails though, this will probably be an empty space if I go to a larger tire so I am looking for ideas on how to use it, not so much hide cargo necessarily. Even my big Pelican that fits everything I am considering replacing with a yellow or orange version - Most people think the black one contains a turn table or drone so I can walk around with it, having a brighter one will make air travel easier though as it's harder for them to lose....I worked at an airport for a year, I know how that happens...it is rated for air travel and could be thrown off a building probably.
 

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don't know what trim you have? Ex and above already have privacy glass standard.
 

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We also have a 1st Gen TSX and I suspect you are the "Circuitsports" from TSXClub!
I am CalgaryTSX on there for many years. 2006 6 speed manual TSX.

We just picked up a used 2016 base model HRV. 2wd, CVT, zero option LX, for winter use.

Our 2wd HRV has the exact same storage tray as your 1st pic. The mini-spare is under it.

I don't recommend carpeting the spare tire wheel well with carpet. If any water or moisture gets in there, it will begin rusting and you will never know it.
I also don't recommend running around with no spare tire but that's up to you!

As the others recommended, get the rear windows tinted. This is also on my to do list.
This will make the vehicle look better, keep it cooler and hide any stuff in the back.

I would recommend building or fabricating a removable false floor for the back of your HRV to hide and secure your valuables.
Something that can be locked and secured to the vehicle but removable. Perhaps 12 inches high, black carpeted, lockable lid. That takes up the entire rear storage area of the HRV.

You mentioned installing taller tires your HRV.
Since the HRV is completely underpowered and a total dog, I would proceed carefully with this, especially with the CVT trans.
Not sure if you drove an HRV with a 6 speed manual trans but its way better than the CVT untill you get to freeway speed.
The HRV 6 speed manual does about 3800 rpm at about 65mph in 6th gear which is completely lame.

Just my thoughts, not sure if this helps..

I suspect we both love Honda's but the HRV is a completely different Honda than our TSX's. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm fairly happy with the hrvs performance after it's 10k mile break in. I use full synthetic and 91 octane and it's certainly picked up a little steam since I first bought it. I have the aem intake for it but I am trying to find a way to test it vs stock before I install it, I'm more concerned with mpg than hp but I know I will gain both. If I use the 225 60 17 terrain contacts on a 17x8 rpf1 it will be 8 pounds lighter per wheel than factory so off stop it will feel quicker but where I really need the tires I'm basically off the brake doing 5-10 in low, so performance there isn't an issue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok I use shell primarily, always worked well and did its job on a the commute and racetracks, I did lots of Dyno testing with fuels over time as many of the classes I've run require pump gas. It's 4.05 for 87 4.15 for 89 and 4.25 for 91 - the difference is 2.20 on an 11 gallon fill-up - roughly 1/2 a gallon. I live at 1400 feet, drive with a heavy foot around town and most of my trips are short between 1400 and 2200 feet elevation - as a result I get 22mpg. Freeway on cruise control I get quite a bit better.

Half a gallon for me is 11 miles on average. Will I get 11 miles worth of additional mileage for the 2.20, yes - in testing I will get around 33 miles better between 87 and 91 on a tank. I've actually saved the equivalent of 1 gallon every fill-up.

Honda's are not binary engines - it still sucks in air, compresses it, ignites it and sends it out the exhaust but for emissions and mileage it has to run the cylinder temperatures as high as the equipment can manage without pre ignition.

In socal I can drive in 4 hours from 80 sea level to 8300 feet at the onyx pass 50 degrees to the snow at bear mtn 30 degrees to - 240 feet in death valley at 120 degrees to the borrego highway which is one of the fastest elevation gains in socal all while fully loaded and the engine has to deal with that and much more.

It does this by using the knock sensor to listen for preignition and add fuel which cools the cylinder temps or less to heat it up as well as timing etc. The higher the knock resistance of the fuel is, the less required to control the combustion event.

Shell also has cutting edge cleaning capability some of which comes from there partnership with Ferrari in street cars and f1. I've taken motors that I put 140k on and they were remarkably free of carbon.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also more air less fuel all things being equal means more potential energy in this case more hp. Cars from the mid 90s had 91 octane maps and you'd see 10hp at the wheels on a Dyno, now it's a little trickier because you see the change over a drive cycle, about a tank of gas in some cars.
 
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