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Android Head Unit Upgrade

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160K views 340 replies 55 participants last post by  Dr. Toboggan  
#1 · (Edited)
They advertise this unit as having full stock functionality with both cameras and features. I can happily say that it is exactly what they say it is. I have a lot to say so read carefully if you are considering purchasing this unit. Hopefully I can help.

Brief rundown:
All the cameras work and the unit even retains the MPG and trip mpg history features. The unit also adds some features like graphical door ajar indicators. Plug and play with some configuration through a password protected factory settings menu. (password is 126). Steering wheel buttons work and are programmable. This thing is LEGIT!

Cameras:
With a little configuration they both work just fine. The Lane Assist camera has the distance lines programmed in to it so they display automatically. The reversing camera settings include options to show trajectory as well as a distance ruler too.
To properly route the signal for the Lane Assist camera in a USDM HRV EX I had to do the following:
"GO to Settings >Car >Factory Setting (password 126) >Other >Customer Version >Version 2"
In "Settings >Car >Extra Settings >Reversing Volume >On" or set the reverse volume to the desired attenuation. Otherwise as configured by the factory the audio will cut out when the reverse or Lane Assist cameras are active.
(The "Factory Setting" menu has a lot of other configurable options that are vehicle specific. Password: 126)

Installation:
The Dasaita is plug and play with a little common sense. Huge bundle of wires that will need to be zip tied and kept tidy, perhaps wrapped in foam to prevent rattling. Two harnesses did not plug in to anything, one with two green wires and a large gray plug and the other was a small blue DA plug (confirmed not needed by support rep.)
The dash trim pulls off easily and only 3 bolts hold the stock unit in to the dash. My first go around has me thinking that the new unit is intended to simply pressure fit in to the cavity where the original stereo came out. The original stereo's metal cage didn't fit the new Dasaita unit but I would prefer that it did. The Dasaita gets quite hot to the touch after a short period and a metal heatsink to the chassis would be preferred. I may end up installing a small fan to cool the unit.
GPS antenna: Even though my HRV is only an EX it still had a GPS antenna installed. It was directly above the stereo unit on a metal bracket with a short pigtail cable. I removed the original antenna from the bracket and installed the new Dasaita antenna in it's place. This worked out great and I had no trouble getting a fast and accurate GPS lock with google maps.
WiFi: get a bigger WiFi antenna. It made a big difference in speed and reception after I swapped it for one I had lying around. You either need an SMA Male Connector antenna or do what I did and cut a piece of short solid core wire to act as the center pin. MOST wifi antennas are SMA FEMALE so you won't likely have a Male one lying around.
USB: Included, but not shown in the product description, is one adapter labeled "Toyota usb adapter" which allows you to connect one of the units usb ports to the stock HRV under dash ports. Do yourself a favor and order a second one from Amazon to connect the second port. It won't fit perfectly but if you double check the orientation and just cram the plugs together it will work. Tested and verified.
HDMI: there is no HDMI, so the mostly useless port under your center console will be nonfunctional. I would be interested to see If one could obtain an additional USB port for this location to better utilize the Dasaita's third usb connection.
Speed and Responsiveness:
The specs seem to be true to the user experience, it is very responsive, fastest Android device I have ever owned. But then again I generally own 2+ year old phones anyway.

Sound quality:
Let me preface this by disclosing that I am an audio engineer and have spent the better part of a decade performing modifications to audio equipment to improve the audio path and quality on a commercial level. I have a very discerning ear, but I don't buy crazy expensive HI-FI equipment due to my practical nature and the law of diminishing returns. Great sound quality can be achieved without breaking the bank. Additionally, I have already upgraded the speakers in my HRV so I am getting the full benefits of a new headunit.
With the exception of Bluetooth (see below), the audio quality is where the unit has proven itself to me. The stock stereo has some terrible equalization profile applied to the audio at all times or the analog audio path consists of junk components. Having only has bass and treble controls you cannot correct the crappy audio quality in the stock hrv headunit. The Dasaita unit has a 9 point graphical EQ that can be set completely flat and is fairly transparent when cutting and boosting frequencies. My advice would be to mostly cut, not boost. For example if you want more bass, don't turn the bass up, turn the trebel down. This helps with headroom and Dynamics. I think that the unit produces great sounding audio to the speakers through the internal amplifier. However, like most internal amplifiers, the headroom leaves much to be desired. When you start turning up the volume to where the music gets "loud" the dynamic range is compressed and eventually starts to distort. This is true of most internal amplifiers of car head units. The great thing is that the Dasaita has proper front and rear RCA outputs for attaching a 4 channel amp and sub. I will likely install an amp down the road but the audio quality of the Dasaita will get me by until then for sure! The noise floor is a little bit higher than I would like, but only really a slight hiss that is noticeable when sitting still, when the car is in motion it is mostly masked by road noise. I guess I will find out down the road if this is the audio path or amplifier noise floor.
Bluetooth audio: I have not yet tested this unit with another Bluetooth audio device, but with my stock HTC One M8 the bluetooth audio streaming quality was COMPLETE GARBAGE! Unlistenable amounts of noise, crackles and distortion. Update: tested with an iPhone, same result. I will try different software.. So far this is my only gripe.

Software:
This is straight up ANDROID IN YOUR DASH! No restrictions, any app any time.
The stock music player is basically a proof of concept player. Download a better one ASAP.
The unit came preloaded with iGo Navigation which loaded up with French as the default language. I haven't put any time in to using this application because when I need to navigate I use Google Maps then Sygic Maps then Sygic Car Navigation (in that order of preference).
The stock launcher is junk but they do include a full licensed version of "Car Launcher AG" and I quite like it! Once configured it is a great dashboard interface.

Screen:
The 8" screen almost fills the entire opening on the dash, this is GLORIOUS! No more black bar around the screen! The screen is recessed in to the dash trim by a gloss black bezel. I get the impression that the angle was designed for right hand drive vehicles but it looks nice and clean. The color and contrast of the screen is great, so much better than stock.

Phone integration:
The provided apps and settings allow for making phone calls over bluetooth, but I haven't done much more than make a test call to check my voicemail.
I haven't spent a ton of time using the new unit so I may report back with updates as I become more familiar.
I would recommend this to anybody with an HRV and enough confidence to install it. VERY MUCH WORTH IT.
 
#202 · (Edited)
If I remember correctly, those two on mine were round inside and plugged into the wires. I don’t really remember much detail about those connectors other than I matched up the shape from the head unit wires to the factory wires. There were some that didn’t connect to anything but my car is an LX.
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#203 ·
After a long 6+ hours I got the Dasaita Max11 and my subwoofer installed. I will say I am kind of confused on what to do with the USB plugs. There was an adapter that plugged into one of the stock plugs and created a male USB Connector. Not sure what it is for. There is a female USB adapter that plugs into the Dasaita that says it's for car play? I don't use car play but I plugged them in.


Then there are the two female USB connectors that come from the Dasaita. I am not sure what these are for, i am guessing they are just extra USB ports. I do not know how to get the stock USB ports working if that is possible.


I read there is HDMI on the new model. There is HDMI but it is an HDMI out. Not sure why I would want to output HDMI from the Dasaita. I thought I'd be able to input to the Dasaita display.


I also could not figure out how to install the remote/accessory wire to the sub. I hooked it up to the "AMP" wire from the Dasaita wire harness, but it is not wired to anything! I then tried to splice into the HR-V stock accessory wire, still nothing. I either have the wrong wire or my subwoofer remote wire is faulty.


Overall the UI is pretty dated looking. I don't mind too much, but would like to update to Vivid. However, I see on the forums many issues with Bluetooth so don't want to update in fear it might break.


Currently the sound quality of my setup is not what I wanted. Kind of disappointed, but I will play around with it more.
 
#204 ·
I have the MAX10 and an LX, so I’m sure our wires are different. What model is your car? My car only has one USB port and the adapter went to it, when I plug my phone or a USB thumb drive into that port on the car lower console then it connects to the head unit.

The HDMI out is to connect video screen(s) in the back of the headrest (head restraints). I don’t think that Dasaita sells those though but there are plenty on the market.

I have no experience with amps or subs, so I can’t give any input there but I can tell you that on mine when I fine tuned the equalizer settings then it really made it sound good.
 
#206 ·
I see now, it’s #4 shown here but since mine is an LX with only one USB port then I only used #3. That #4 wire, I didn’t even plug it in because I knew that I would not need it.

EDIT: I’m mistaken, I didn’t use #3 or #4, I used #10 for the USB

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#208 ·
So, this is all going by memory which is not so good but the next time that I pop my dash open I will take pictures of everything for future reference to help everyone. Okay, IIRC, take #3 and plug the purple connector to the back of the head unit, then plug the male USB of the adapter into the female USB of #3 and then take the other end of the adapter (black square) and plug it to the factory connector (it's uniquely shaped so it's only one). Please disregard what I posted above, my memory wasn't clear. Try this and let me know. I plan to install my TV tuner soon and will get pictures of all my wires at that time. By the way, I checked and #4 is still in my box, so I know that I didn’t use it.
 
#211 ·
Another thing I have noticed is the radio is WAY louder than Android Auto. So if I exit android auto and turn on the radio, I have to make sure the head unit is volume 1 before I switch. Also, volume 1 seems very loud, like the volume I'd consider normal listening volume while driving at 30-40mph. Only with the radio though, Android Auto can get quiet.
 
#213 ·
Oh, not sure, I’m using CarPlay but I can tell you that my CarPlay and radio are the same volume. These phones and head units have so many settings sometimes it takes a while to get everything working right. I’ve never even seen Android Auto in person to know anything about it.
 
#214 ·
#224 ·
Yes, you go into the settings and turn it off. It's been mentioned two or three times in this thread, scroll around and try and find it.

Try this from my notes:

turn reverse (rear) and/or lanewatch (right) camera off:
Settings > Car > Factory Settings > 126 (password) > Other > Prohibit reverse > Disable

route the signal for the Lane Assist camera in a US HRV EX, I had to do the following:
Settings > Car > Factory Settings > 126 (password) > Other > Customer Version > Version 2
 
#218 ·
Well I got my Dasaita unit installed. All works except for the backup camera and lane watch camera. Both are non-existent. I have tried every combo of RCA inputs I can think of and the only results I can get are the AVIN screen to show the image from the camera, not if I put it in reverse or if I use the signal/signal button.

I have left a message with the seller but they are not responding. If anyone has a solution for the 2017 EX with these issues please reach out to me.🤙
 
#220 ·
I have made an album of some of the connectors I plugged in so if you have the CB015 wiring harness then hopefully this helps. I still don't have the right steering wheel buttons and bottom left call/back buttons working so if anyone has those working please let me know. Aside from that my rear and side cam works and all other features are working.


 
#226 ·
I still don't have the right steering wheel buttons and bottom left call/back buttons working so if anyone has those working please let me know.
Mine work but we don't have the same wire harness, so I don't think that we can compare our cars.
 
#221 ·
Alright I have a question for you guys. My android auto is way quieter than my radio app. Anyone know which setting it is to change that? Been changing these settings around and can't find a difference.
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P.S. I got my steering wheel call buttons working by plugging the D wire into D1 instead of D2 but now my left/right steering wheel buttons don't work :p is that a setting?
 
#232 ·
Three things happened yesterday; I updated to iOS 15.6.1 on my iPhone 12 Pro Max, I got a new gigabit modem from my ISP installed (1) and the ZLINK (2) stopped connecting to CarPlay wirelessly in my car. The odd part was the connectivity problem did not start right away, I was actually 30 minutes (22 miles) away from my house when the CarPlay started disconnecting and then completely shut off and would not reconnect wirelessly but would connect with a wire. I waited until I got home to troubleshoot the problem and soon found out that it's most likely not the iOS 15.6.1 update because when I "Forget Network" on the new modem then the connectivity problem stopped. I further tested this by connecting my iPhone to an older router and the problem was resolved. However, the old router is slow, so I want to be able to connect to my new modem for the fast speed. This leaves the option to update the ZLINK software but I'm always afraid to do anything that can't be reverted back (3). The status now is that I sent a message to Dasaita asking if I should update the ZLINK software and I'm using my phone at home with the old slow router for now. It's still a mystery to me why the car didn't disconnect and have this problem until 30 minutes (22 miles) after I left my house because it seems to me the problem is that the gigabit modem is what is stopping the ZLINK from connecting to the phone wirelessly for CarPlay.

(1) my ISP put in fiber optic cables and my modem wasn't compatible, so I had to upgrade
(2) ZLINK is the software that connects the iPhone to the head unit via Wi-Fi and Bluetooth to allow CarPlay to be wireless
(3) the only way to revert back to the older version of the ZLINK software would be to do a hard reset of the whole head unit
 
#233 ·
Three things happened yesterday; I updated to iOS 15.6.1 on my iPhone 12 Pro Max, I got a new gigabit modem from my ISP installed and the ZLINK stopped connecting to CarPlay wirelessly in my car.
I did a “hard reset” to my phone and it fixed the problem.
 
#234 ·
Today I tried to get an OBD2 reader to work with the Dasaita. I tried the Torque app which wouldn’t connect to the ELM reader and the DashCommand app which did nothing but crash. The reader along with the DashCommand app did work on my iPhone though. However, it’s over Wi-Fi and I would have to sacrifice wireless CarPlay, so no.
 
#237 ·
I watch movies on the Dasaita at least once or twice a week and have had no problems for two years but for some reason it would not read the USB that I inserted today. I had to plug it into my computer and it had two folders (one named Android) that I had to delete. After that it is working normally again. The “USB-A” wasn’t even showing until I deleted those folders.
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#238 ·
does your system still turn off sometimes where you need to turn the car off? i used to have a Seicane unit in my 2008 accord that did that and after i updated the firmware it started happening less. when i replaced the dongle they sent me with a wireless one I got on amazon then it stopped altogether.

i just want to be sure i am getting the right option here. from what i read the choices seem to be:
  • dasaita or maxca head unit that retains camera functionality (full screen/best looking, less familiar brand/riskier)
  • swapping with a 2019 head unit (almost exact same design, small screen/waste of space, loses lane watch camera (i think?) )
  • 2013-2015 CRV head unit with firmware update (same wiring harness/plug and play, OEM, older design)
  • pioneer or kenwood head unit (more familiar brand, small screen/waste of space, 2nd least favorite option)
  • keeping the existing head unit installed (no)
im leaning towards the dasaita head unit since i have ordered from Seicane before and the risk was comparable, but overall i was happy with my purchase. I just want to make sure that everything should work as expected. from what I read the cameras will work if you apply the correct settings, but I was curious if any other problems have been noted.
 
#239 ·
Just to be clear, the system never "turned off", what I complained about was that if CarPlay would not connect (wirelessly) then I had to turn the car off and restart it again so that the head unit would reboot and try to connect (with zlink again). I tried everything, including as posted before to assign the power/mute button to reboot the head unit. Unfortunately that didn't work either, the problem remains (problem is that sometimes zlink doesn't connect the CarPlay from the phone to the head unit and I have to restart the car to try again). It only does this problem about every 8 of 10 start ups, so I just live with it, because I'm too afraid to start "working" on it.

I have no preference to any particular brand name, all that I care about is that CarPlay works. All of the other features on those head units are nice but I don't really need them. CarPlay has always been my goal ever since my first test drive at the dealership when I knew before buying this car (the LX) that it didn't have CarPlay and that I would have to install it myself. So, make your best choice for you and you've already pointed out the obvious from your list there. What you've said is also my opinion.

I've read the CRV thread here and the EX upgrade to the LX thread too, both of those seemed to much of a hassle for me. I wanted plug and play with as little work as possible. Pioneer is a head unit that I've installed in two of my other cars before in the past and that would be my choice if it were not for the tiny screen. Although, the software on those is limited, so if you want some features then the Dasaita would be your choice solely for its Android system.

All that I can add, from my own experience, is that Dasaita will continue to work with you until everything is functioning properly. What is vital for that is that you have three things; the correct harness, the correct CAN-BUS and the correct CAN-BUS setting. Once you have those three I'm confident that everything will work, that was my case.
 
#240 ·
I just received my unit in the mail and I’m going to begin the install today, however I think the unit looks somewhat strange. The frame around the screen is somewhat thick and looks like it would make the screen recessed into the dash. Other photos I have seen have a more stock look, so I’m not sure if I need to get another piece, or if the OEM dash will make this fit flush. It also has the word Dasaita on it which I did not see in other photos.
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#242 ·
I just received my unit in the mail and I’m going to begin the install today, however I think the unit looks somewhat strange. The frame around the screen is somewhat thick and looks like it would make the screen recessed into the dash. Other photos I have seen have a more stock look, so I’m not sure if I need to get another piece, or if the OEM dash will make this fit flush. It also has the word Dasaita on it which I did not see in other photos.
I have the same bezel on mine. It fits perfectly.
 
#243 ·
I installed the head unit back during the week of Christmas. I created a video but it was very rambley so I will make a new one soon. But I did run into some issues:
  • The lane assist camera does not work when I put on my right turn signal. I instead get a yellow caution mark. The same happens if I press the lane assist button.
  • The music pauses when the reverse camera is showing, and when the yellow caution mark is showing in place of the lane assist camera.
    • This was getting extremely irritating for the lane assist camera, so I deactivated the lane assist on right turn signal for now since the camera isn't working anyway.
    • I changed the setting that is supposedly responsible for this issue and nothing changed.
I read through all pages of this post, as well as others. I tried multiple troubleshooting tips and I do not know what to do. Im not sure if it is an issue with the actual harness, the way I have it plugged in, the CANBUS, the CANBUS settings, or a combination. From what I can tell, I have the correct equipment. I have tried a variety of combinations of different settings. I don't know what to try next.

For reference:
  • My car: 2018 Honda HRV EX-L
  • My head unit: HA5248 (not sure what the hell is wrong with Dasaita's website right now)
  • CANBUS: CB015 (according to website)
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#244 ·
I installed the head unit back during the week of Christmas. I created a video but it was very rambley so I will make a new one soon. But I did run into some issues:
  • The lane assist camera does not work when I put on my right turn signal. I instead get a yellow caution mark. The same happens if I press the lane assist button.
  • The music pauses when the reverse camera is showing, and when the yellow caution mark is showing in place of the lane assist camera.
    • This was getting extremely irritating for the lane assist camera, so I deactivated the lane assist on right turn signal for now since the camera isn't working anyway.
    • I changed the setting that is supposedly responsible for this issue and nothing changed.
I read through all pages of this post, as well as others. I tried multiple troubleshooting tips and I do not know what to do. Im not sure if it is an issue with the actual harness, the way I have it plugged in, the CANBUS, the CANBUS settings, or a combination. From what I can tell, I have the correct equipment. I have tried a variety of combinations of different settings. I don't know what to try next.

For reference:
  • My car: 2018 Honda HRV EX-L
  • My head unit: HA5248 (not sure what the hell is wrong with Dasaita's website right now)
  • CANBUS: CB015 (according to website)
I am 100% familiar with your nightmare. I went through all those exact steps, hours of CANBUS settings, updates, youtube videos in foreign languages translated that lead to nowhere, I even tried to re-wire the CANBUS myself. I was ready to pitch the thing into the ocean and invest in CD's and paper maps.

In the end, it was the CANBUS they sent me. It was the wrong one. I reached out to Dasaita and let them know the CANBUS was not working and they sent out a new one. Once I had the correct one, it was 20 minutes and all functions worked.

I'm planning on swapping out my mic tonight and I'll take a photo of my CANBUS number and post it here for you.

The music while reversing is just a setting. I can help with that too.

Go to settings>car settings>extra settings> reversing volume. Make sure its on. (keep in mind you need to scroll to see it)
 
#245 ·
The first and foremost thing is don't give up communication with Dasaita because if you continue to work with them they will get it working correctly. Mine is a HA5248 also but I have the CB014 CAN-BUS and my CAN-BUS setting is for the Civic. I assume my CB014 and your CB015 is because mine is an LX and yours is an EX-L. What I've learned from our experiences in this thread is that the "three" (harness, CAN-BUS and CAN-BUS setting) all have to be the correct combo. Like mine, for example, everything worked except the reverse camera and it was due to the wrong harness. So, you'll have to work with them to find out which of your "three" (or all three) is not correct. If you want, you can try the CAN-BUS setting; mine was on CRIDER but after I changed the harness it needed to be on CIVIC. I would not mess with the harness other than switching around the two yellow RCA connections, use trial and error to see if they're mixed up. If I were in your position, I'd send them the pictures and info that you've posted above. I played around with mine for two months unsuccessfully until I sent them a message and they sent me the correct harness and I had it going a week later when I got it in the mail. Don't give up, it's a really good system, today I watched a movie for 30 minutes while waiting for an appointment.