My out-of-warranty 2016 HR-V EX AWD (purchased Honda Certified used in 2018 with about 30,000 miles, now about 51,000 miles) began experiencing the blank or flashing right odometer/fuel/temp display a few weeks ago when the weather turned cooler. An outside air temperature of 65 degrees or less caused the display to remain blank or flash occasionally until the temperature reached 70 or above. I tried pressing the Trip reset button, and that would restore the display as long as I was pressing it, but of course, pushing it too many times also reset my trip counter.
So today, I watched a couple of YT videos, re-read this thread, and similar ones here and in the Fit forum I follow.
One YT video mentioned disconnecting the car battery, but because the cluster has just a single harness that plugs in to the dash, and I wasn't using metal tools, messing with the airbag, or any other electrical components, that seemed excessive, so I left the battery connected.
I extended the steering wheel fully toward me and fully down, and turned the steering wheel about 30-degrees to the left, to facilitate cluster removal. I pulled the trim toward me to release the trim clips (top first), removed the three screws securing the cluster, and the fourth one securing the extended top clip of the cluster, then removed the cluster from the car, unclipping the gray clip from the cluster by pushing down on the top release while pulling the connector away from the cluster. Then I removed the screws securing the white back panel to the cluster. Removing the white panel gives ready access to the vertical row of soldered pins on the left side as you face the rear cluster circuit board. Then I re-heated each of the problematic pins using a low-wattage electric soldering iron with a very thin pointed tip. I didn't try adding more solder the first time. I tested the cluster by re-plugging it before I reinstalled the white plastic back.
It worked as expected, but, likely because I had inadvertntly attempted to start the car without my foot on the brake the first time, the Check Engine indicator was also illuminated. The ambient temperature was about 70 while I was testing it.
To be certain that my first attempt wasn't a faulty soldering job, I reheated each pin and added a tiny bit of fresh solder this time. On the second test, the Check Engine indicator did not iluminate.
I reinstalled the white back panel on the cluster, installed the screws, reinstalled the cluster itself, secured it with the screws, and reinstalled the trim, with the bottom two 'legs' placed behind the existing trim, and carefully fished the dash light and reset stalk into position before fully snapping the top of the trim back in place.
I'll do a future update in this thread only if my repair fails to work in cooler air temperatures or other issues are encountered.