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My 2018 HRV with 25,707 miles on it has a rattle coming from the rear. I took into the dealer today and the mechanic said that it needs new shocks in the rear and that the design allows gravel to kick up between the bumper and the under carriage cover. He said that he removed alot of gravel from there!!! It is too soon for the car to need shocks, my Corolla never needed shocks in 10 years of driving the same roads.
The way that Honda designed the HRV makes me think that the designers built in as many holes as they could. Rodents have chewed up the windshield washer hoses while making nests under the hood's heat shield. Rodents have also filled the climate control fan box with nuts causing some damage. The engine compartment has many nooks and shelves that seem to attract leaves. Really poor design.
But shocks at 25,000 miles? That is crazy! It all makes me rethink the quality of Honda Motors.
 
My 2019 has 15,+ miles has the same racket going on
sounds like it's coming from right rear. Have appointment this week.We'll see what the dealer says.?
Return ed from the dealer today.?They said I would need a right rear shock,have to order it I said only the right? She said it only has 15,000 miles so they don't replace both. ?She would have to order one in?
you would think they would have it in stock.?
 
They replaced the right rear shock didn't drive off the lot returned to service told service tec. He drove my vehicle said it needed another shock. So had to make another appointment and be making a 70 mile round trip.
 
I have a 2013 HRV EX I just bought in July from a local dealer. They replaced the rear shocks and bushing at puchase due to a back end clunking. But it is still clunking. I removed everything from the back except the spare which is not loose. My mecahnics hear the sound but find no cuase. They said everything looks tight and clean and good underneath. Mine is a clunk, not a rattle, and it happens when going over rr tracks, pot hole or big bumps. Small diviets or changes in pavement do not make it happen. I read about the sway bar linkage - could this be the issue? Any other ideas? Thanks all! Glad I am not alone in this boat.
 
New to the forum, 2016 hr-v, just had the rear passenger strut replaced today for the second time.... The honda mechanic said the driver side sounds like it is going bad, that will be the second replacement for that side..... Not sure the lemon law works, any insight??
 
Brought my 2017 HR-V EX in today for service as the warranty is about to end. I told the tech that I have two issues, a clunk from the rear of the car on bumpy roads and the rear hatch does not always release in cold weather.

Turns out I needed two new shocks and a new hatch release mechanism. Thankfully warranty still in effect for 45 more days, so no charge.

Car only has 15K on it so I am amazed how fast the shocks wore out. I have had cars go over 100K without needing new shocks.
 
I wonder if Honda had a bad batch, I had to replace both rear shocks on my 2017 last year.
I dropped off my '17 today to get the rear looked at AGAIN. Had the rear struts replaced last year. Of course the warranty is 36000 mi and I am at 37000+, but the guy said he was going to tell Honda corporate to do the repair for 'goodwill. I agree. Two sets in a 3 year old car?? 😩😩
 
Honda Carland came through. I had a 10:15 appointment, and cars were backed up at the service entrance. They finished my paperwork around 10:30, and at 2:30 told me the car was done. Free first oil change. They put two techs in the car, one to drive, the other in the back to listen for noises. Tech notes:

Rear strut and right rear passenger seat found slightly loose.
Tighten all rear suspension bolts to spec, and applied felt tape to hings on right rear seat. Test drove vehicle and confirmed no excessive noise heard at this time.


As far as I can see, the noise is banished. I didn't like the felt tape solution, which I believed would wear. Instead, I put a piece of rubber hose on the front of the U bracket that the rear seat latches against. I had to slit the hose, slide it over the bracket, then zip tied in place. OD 15mm, length 77mm.

Image


This is just big enough in diameter for a friction fit against the upper and lower edges of the guidance track, and short enough that the hose doesn't interfere with the latching mechaism. Nice, solid engagement now, and I decided to do both sides. I don't consider this a design defect; I have done this sort of perfectionist fine tuning to every single vehicle I have ever owned. A few weeks ago, when I first started noticing the clunk in the rear, I stuffed the space between the outer wall of the rear hatch and the inner plastic with fiberglass batting. It didn't help that problem, but probably provides a marginal amount of sound proofing to the hatch.
This is a great solution. Thank you. Any way I can see the picture of your fix?
 
Quite a long post! Allow me a minute to defend the mechanics working on your cars. Squeaks, rattles, clunks, etc are the hardest & most time consuming things to diagnose. Being paid on flat rate time, it's almost impossible to get paid for the time spent on these problems. It isn't that the dealer is disinterested in fixing the problem. It's that the tech is trying to make a pay check, and that is impossible with these kinds of problems. It's one of the reasons I left the dealer for an independent shop.

Anyhow, are the cars having issues all AWD or early production or only CVT models? Any pattern of affected vehicles?

I see a few of you are near Atlanta. I'm in Braselton. Drove to Anderson, SC to buy mine. Best car buying experience I have ever had!
That explains the lack of product support and a system that generates unhappy owners. This was my first and LAST Honda not because of the car but because of dealerships maintenance department.

A warranty is only as good as the maintenance department. They tout the value of the warranty and a CPO when talking price. They will downplay a CARFAX on a vehicle they sell you but on a trade in they will tell you your car is worthless. Then they pay you nothing and sell it for full price.

I’d like to note that my CPO was a joke and never actually done. They just checked the boxes on the form. How I know this is because my ‘16 HRV is a 6-Speed manual transmission which is rare. On the CPO the boxes were checked for CVT automatic transmission components non existent in my car and for the manual transmission / clutch / brake components were labeled n/a and lastly sealing their guilt my previous owner added the OEM accessory upgrade of fog lights to the base LX and noted on CPO N/A.

All of that proved to me that certainly my vehicle and likely every one and East Cost were never put through the so called 120 point inspection. They sold me on the car, with an inflated price, based on a faith and a belief with the confidence that a sound mechanic with expertise of these specific vehicles took the time to inspect the machine. It’s an absolute joke. I am just lucky enough to know or at least assume that no inspection of my car was done. Given the problems I have had and their either unwillingness (often utilize delaying and holding on to your car doing nothing and telling you some store) or also unfortunately when they do try to do the work on a rare occasion you get a good one and the do it right. But most often clear they are inept or are having unqualified people doing the work. It’s like if there is no OBD protocol they can’t even think like a mechanic.

Last year I hit a large rock one day and it damaged the sending unit / fuel pump float for fuel level indicator from the impact. The police officer behind me in his Malibu hit it as well and his car was completely disabled. After the event my fuel gauge went from full to half tank. No leak just incorrect reading. It would only read half when full. Understanding what happened or what likely happened myself, my geico claims adjuster (not mechanics) and the mechanic at Addys Harbor dodge all could intelligently deduce that the problem came from the mechanical part in the gas tank. The float attached to the sending unit fuel pump in the tank that gives the level reading on the gauge. After a week at East Coast Honda Geico asked my permission to have the vehicle towed from East Coast Cars to Addy’s Harbor Dodge. Addy’s had no problem and only took one day to get the part, fix and replace the fuel pump. It took them another day to reinstall the entire dashboard and console that Honda dissembled. Addy’s harbor dodge asked me why they did that to which I was unaware of and we both shared a sad laugh that these fools were looking for the fuel level inaccuracy in the instrument panel. It’s not actually funny, it’s pathetic, sad, and alarmingly scary. Luckily the Honda cars are good enough and the engine/trans rugged enough, so that even with poor service we should get there alive most of the time.

But there is a systematic problem with Honda’s dealerships. It’s not just that they don’t like me , I know that they don’t and that’s fine. Also sadly my Honda dealership is not alone as I read so many posts here that sound all too familiar. I suppose it’s in the mission statement.

Problems like this are a clear example. I don’t understand why they don’t realize that if they actually did the 120 point Certified Pre-Owned inspection they would have less cars coming back to service. They would have people like me who have a “service brake system immediately” light come on one mile after leaving the dealership in my new car and then it take them months to try to find and never fix it. I finally had it fixed at jiffy lube. Honda engines are amazing and lucky for them not a lot of good problems there. Honda customer care for me has been a disappointment.

Back to the warranty/CPO, a warranty is only as good as the service department’s ability and willingness to honor it and a CPO is nothing if never actually inspected. For me CPO is worthless unless you make them do it again (actually do it) and the warranty is flimsy because you may get it fixed or likely not. They like to give you the run around and let your warranty coverage run out and then they will gladly do what should have already been done but with your money.

It really bothers me to hear a a so called mechanic say wait till it gets worse. No good mechanic would ever say that.

Honda also makes corporate jets. I hope to the aviation sector of Honda does maintenance and warranty better for the aircraft. Or do they wait for it to get worse.

Next time I’ll try Toyota or Nissan but only after researching the dealership. So back to the warranty. when they first try to avoid doing the repair, as is their first and favorite tactic
 
Hello, I have a 2021 HR-V EX that already has almost 10k miles on it. I love driving it and have taken it on a couple long trips. Recently, I have noticed that when I am going at a low speed, going around a corner, and hitting a small bump, I hear a clunk sound in the rear drivers side. I haven't gotten it to the dealership yet, but intend to soon. I am wondering if anyone else has had the same issue.
Thanks for any input :)
 
Honda HRV rear noise usually from the rear seats latch, but front noise usually caused by the rack steering and stabilizer link. It is common illness in modern car now which use rack steering, cost me 300 US dollar whole set
 
Anyone has this noise issue when going over speed humps? It sounded like the spare wheel was not properly fastened, gets ejected and falling back in the trunk. But it wasn't the spare wheel.

For big round curvy humps, car travelling speed around 25 to 30 km/h will have this noise.
Small sharp humps, 20 to 25km/h will make the noise.

Could it be suspension issue?
6 months looking for the root of the sound from the rear passenger side, three times I changed the rear shock absorbers and the same problem. does that mean I have to look somewhere else. I start checking the rear driver seat and I see that it has a long pin, I also see what the pin grabbed and the seat is loose. to remove the doubts I remove the rear passenger seat from behind. and I do a road test. I don't hear any singular sound everything is fine until that moment I found the root of the sound. I found the piece that holds the pin and the seat support in the sling. I put it in and it had some movement maybe wear on the same pin too. I went back and removed it, then I thought will I have to eat a pin too? the pin and what holds the pin to the seat support costs 150.00 it may not last long. my other option was to use my common sense and I modified it since I had it outside it was easy, it is also very easy to remove the seat. Now the seat has no sound, it is safer than before. Before changing the shock absorbers, I recommend that you take a look at the rear passenger seat first. If you go to Honda, those idiots will tell you that this sound is normal.
 
I am currently dealing with this same issue. Low speed "clunk" and "clunk" when going over speed bumps. I have 6800 miles on my HRV and the dealer is now saying its a broken shock. Told me they would need to order another shock, Jan 22nd 2016 is arrival date for said shock. Guy told me to watch out for potholes and I'm lucky its covered under warranty. All this and I get my car back, white with gray interior, stains from the dirty tech and broken sunglasses also...

I have to say, I've owned many many Honda cars. Couple of S2000s and civics and integras along with an 09 4dr Accord I sold and bought my HRV. The buying process and this car have been THE biggest headache I have ever had. I will never buy another new Honda or new car for that matter. Terrible experience.

Back on topic... I guess I am lucky to have a warranty and they will be replacing the shock. I am not 100% sold on this but I'll let them take a shot at it. I will report back.
Ball joint. I had similar
 
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