Have several lights on dashboard on. Most concerning is a red, blinking "PARK" when electric parking break is engaged/disengaged. The green indicator around speedometer is not working either.
Electric parking break problem
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Kmatthews
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I have had this blinking P, EP, VS and other lights in my dash pointing to parking brake problem
I came back to the car later and then this issue was gone.
The car has now over 23 000 km on it
and other than electric problems I have oil leaks now too :O
I came back to the car later and then this issue was gone.
The car has now over 23 000 km on it
and other than electric problems I have oil leaks now too :O
I agree with the above. Comments on forums are usually made when things go wrong. People rarely post up when things are going OK.
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i had an 2016 HRV and had the same problem. At first the Honda dealer reset my computer system and they also talk to Honda Manufacture experts (cost me extra $$$). Then after we replace the battery everything is fine. It's a strange problem.
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The same thing just happened to me with my 2016 HRV and I am so upset! I purchased the extended warranty with my car when I got the car (Used). I recently sent the car to the dealer because it was making a clunk noise on a cold start.... I was informed that the tensioner was bad... good news was that was a warranty part.... bad news the belt needed changing as well and that was not under warranty so $61.00 I got my car back, washed and ready to go. Now not even a week later the park light starts flashing red then yellow and the check engine symbol comes on... so back to the dealer we go... Keep in mind I am still inside of my extended warranty. Low and behold I get a call from them to tell me that after an hour of diagnostics they don't know what the issue is and that I need to authorize them to do up to 3 hours more of diagnostics on the car at a cost of $130.00 per hour. Today I get a call saying we have found the problem it appears to be a wire that was either corroded or torn... yeah ok so who the hell would have torn it since the only people under the hood of my car is them! same dealer repairs my car as the one I purchased it from... Anyhow the mechanic that was assigned to me starts of by saying "good news we found the problem and you can have your car back today... bad news you will need to pay for the 3 hours of diagnostics!!!! REALLY!? I am going to pick up my car in the morning on my way to work and we are going to have to talk about this since finding this forum took me all but 5 min on my laptop so what the heck... maybe the mechanic should have come here first to see what it could be and save us all 3 hours of billable time. !!! Full stop I am so not going to take this from Honda or my dealer. I have been a loyal Honda customer of theirs for some time with this being the second one I got from them and sorry this is not how you treat your customers. I get it they can't be on the hook for everything but seriously come on now... there are so many people posting about this problem we all can't be at fault!
Not sure if anything is going to come of this but, it has to be said! so many dam people can have the same issues and some one not connect the dots that its not owner but an issue with the manufacturing of this car... Where there is smoke there is fire! Thing that upsets me is that overall I love this car! never any issues to complain about till NOW!
Not sure if anything is going to come of this but, it has to be said! so many dam people can have the same issues and some one not connect the dots that its not owner but an issue with the manufacturing of this car... Where there is smoke there is fire! Thing that upsets me is that overall I love this car! never any issues to complain about till NOW!
Gah... time to necro.
Just got hit with this today (okay, it's 2am, so "yesterday") just as I was about to go do a delivery. The brakes were locked and while I tried to see if I could do something, I couldn't spend a lot of time and ended up borrowing my sister's Town&Country (I really hate that thing) to do the last two deliveries.
When I got time, I tried to see if disconnecting the battery would help. I saw the previous post mentioned that charging didn't help, but replacing the battery did. But since they didn't mention disconnecting while charging, I decided to give it a go... NOPE.
While it is possible the battery has gone "bad" due to the short drive nature of my deliveries... the battery in the Fit has always lasted 3 years with the same driving conditions (unless I let the car sit for a few weeks/months). I've only had the HR-V for 9 months. And yes, I've been driving it regularly for deliveries during the lockdown, except for the few days I was trying to recharge the Fit for an emissions test (the Fit still died before I got a chance to get the test). The HR-V starts fine as far as I can tell.
The only other thing I can think of is, normally, after I put the transmission into Park, I don't release the foot brake until engaging the parking brake or I had it roll to settle before even shifting to P, to keep pressure off the parking paw in the transmission. But right before the failure, I broke that habit, put the HR-V in park, let it roll slightly before activating the EPB. But, unless there's some sort of tension somewhere, it doesn't really make sense to me for this to trigger the issue.
Not sure if it was a coincidence, but I did finally manage to get the brakes to release by strapping in my seatbelt and then pressing the gas. The EPB and brake hold both have conditions to release when you're strapped in, in gear and press the accelerator. The issue is whether or not that feature will trigger. Eventually got myself home, with the warnings and such in my face.
I'm gonna take it to the dealer in a few hours and hope they can fix it.
edit: That was fun... went to the dealer only to be told: "We're backed up and won't even be able to take a look until Monday."
Just got hit with this today (okay, it's 2am, so "yesterday") just as I was about to go do a delivery. The brakes were locked and while I tried to see if I could do something, I couldn't spend a lot of time and ended up borrowing my sister's Town&Country (I really hate that thing) to do the last two deliveries.
When I got time, I tried to see if disconnecting the battery would help. I saw the previous post mentioned that charging didn't help, but replacing the battery did. But since they didn't mention disconnecting while charging, I decided to give it a go... NOPE.
While it is possible the battery has gone "bad" due to the short drive nature of my deliveries... the battery in the Fit has always lasted 3 years with the same driving conditions (unless I let the car sit for a few weeks/months). I've only had the HR-V for 9 months. And yes, I've been driving it regularly for deliveries during the lockdown, except for the few days I was trying to recharge the Fit for an emissions test (the Fit still died before I got a chance to get the test). The HR-V starts fine as far as I can tell.
The only other thing I can think of is, normally, after I put the transmission into Park, I don't release the foot brake until engaging the parking brake or I had it roll to settle before even shifting to P, to keep pressure off the parking paw in the transmission. But right before the failure, I broke that habit, put the HR-V in park, let it roll slightly before activating the EPB. But, unless there's some sort of tension somewhere, it doesn't really make sense to me for this to trigger the issue.
Not sure if it was a coincidence, but I did finally manage to get the brakes to release by strapping in my seatbelt and then pressing the gas. The EPB and brake hold both have conditions to release when you're strapped in, in gear and press the accelerator. The issue is whether or not that feature will trigger. Eventually got myself home, with the warnings and such in my face.
I'm gonna take it to the dealer in a few hours and hope they can fix it.
edit: That was fun... went to the dealer only to be told: "We're backed up and won't even be able to take a look until Monday."
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Maybe I can shed some light from a dealer's perspective. I was a former dealer technician (not for Honda). The repair process is very bureaucratic now, and technicians are relegated to being flowchart readers and part swappers. They want us to follow the manufacturer's approved and published diagnostic procedure. I have a feeling it is largely for legal purposes. Reading a random Internet forum would be highly discouraged.
We do have moments where experience comes into play and a tech can figure out a problem on their own. This is becoming less prevalent now, since again, manufacturers want to tightly-control the repair process. Also, the technicians that don't like dealing with dealership politics either move to independent shops or a different career. Doing a self-diagnosis usually required the shop foreman and/or service manager to approve it since there's no digital paper trail of the troubleshooting done to determine the cause of the problem.
As you found out, most extended warranties don't cover more than one hour of diagnostic time. It'd be different if the vehicle was under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or the powertrain warranty. Technicians get paid by book hours, not actual hours. For us, that one hour of diagnostic time starts ticking the second we pull the ticket. Then you have to walk to the parking lot (which could be really far away), find the car, put on the seat cover, steering wheel cover, and floor mat in, drive it back (assuming it starts), pull it in, set the lift, and fire up the internal diagnostic software. It could be 20 minutes before I even begin to see if I can replicate the problem.
Because of that, any additional troubleshooting time would have to be approved by the customer. Other than that, the shop itself would have to eat the cost. Keep in mind dealerships that sell new and used cars are franchises. They are businesses typically owned by people in your community. The dealership gets reimbursed for warranty work from Honda or third party warranty companies.
The damaged wire could've been damaged by any number of causes. Electrical problems (especially intermittent electrical problems) and water leaks typically take the longest to diagnose. Although it sounds like a simple issue, figuring out which wire or circuit is causing a fault is what is time-consuming. The addiage goes, "You don't pay mechanics to turn a bolt. You pay mechanics to figure out which bolt to turn."
I am in no way defending the dealership or their actions. Unfortunately, good mechanics know their worth and move on once they get fed up of the dealership politics. Also, loyalty to a particular brand or store doesn't mean much now. You bought two cars from a store. A decent salesperson can sell twenty cars a month, times however many salespeople there are in a store.
If there's another Honda dealer nearby, it might be worthwhile checking them out. Even though they all have the Honda brand on their stores, each owner runs their store differently. If the employees are happy, they'll treat their customers better.
The OEM battery is barely adequate at best. That's one spot they try to keep the cost down. Mine lasted 75k miles, but I drove 50 miles at a time, almost all on the freeway. Once I started driving locally (2-3 miles at a time), the battery died a few months later.
To put it into perspective, the OEM battery is rated at 400cca with a reserve capacity of 60 minutes. A whatever-brand group size 51R is 500-525cca with a reserve capacity of 80-90 minutes.
I say "whatever-brand" because Johnson Controls owns a large majority of the market:
- EverStart (Walmart)
- SuperStart (O'reillys)
- Duralast (AutoZone)
- DieHard flooded (Sears)
- Interstate Batteries (independent shops and Costco)
- Optima Batteries
Next to that would be Walmart's Everstart batteries, assuming you don't have an aversion to Walmart. Auto parts stores are typically more expensive. Most places stock a group size 51R since it's used in just about every late-model non-V6 Honda. Heck my '93 Civic Si uses a 51R!
I'd get back in the habit of setting the parking brake before letting your foot off the service brake. Doing that will put the vehicle's weight on the parking brake and not the pawl in the transmission.
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2,348 Posts
They sold their battery group a few years ago. Not sure if anything changed since?
Just got my HR-V back.
According to the dealership, the issue was a faulty switch, it wasn't providing the correct resistance. They replaced it (under warranty) and said it works correctly now.
Since I just got it back, I can't really say anything yet... so, we'll just have to see how it goes. Hopefully, it's done and dusted, cause I dislike having Christmas lights on my instrument panel.
According to the dealership, the issue was a faulty switch, it wasn't providing the correct resistance. They replaced it (under warranty) and said it works correctly now.
Since I just got it back, I can't really say anything yet... so, we'll just have to see how it goes. Hopefully, it's done and dusted, cause I dislike having Christmas lights on my instrument panel.
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3 Posts
Even Honda dealer is not able to solve the problem bro
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87 Posts
I think all HRV's do this...it simply is a reminder to take the parking brake off before driving. If I remember correctly, the parking brake release is automatic anyway. I will try mine later to be sure
It's not a reminder.
In normal operation and you attempt to drive with the parking brake engaged, it can automatically release IF you have your seatbelt on. Otherwise, for the hybrid (according to another post, he/she has a Vezel Hybrid) and facelifted EX/Touring that have the color display in the dash, it gives you a full on message about "how" to release the parking brake with an image of a foot pushing on the brake pedal and then pressing the parking brake switch.
In normal operation and you attempt to drive with the parking brake engaged, it can automatically release IF you have your seatbelt on. Otherwise, for the hybrid (according to another post, he/she has a Vezel Hybrid) and facelifted EX/Touring that have the color display in the dash, it gives you a full on message about "how" to release the parking brake with an image of a foot pushing on the brake pedal and then pressing the parking brake switch.
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2,348 Posts
I don't like the way Honda releases the parking brake If one forgets. You can feel the e-brake holding the car. People usually don't step on the gas when they are backing out.
Hyundai does it better. It automatically releases the parking brake when you shift out of Park.
Hyundai does it better. It automatically releases the parking brake when you shift out of Park.
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4 Posts
I own a 2018 Honda HRV (Ex) with less then 19K milage on it and I am having issues with "Electric Braking System".
The “Electronic Braking System” light came on along with “Break” red light flashing on 24th Dec. On 25th the car sat on the driveway. Then on 26th I turned on the car to take it to the Honda Dealer in Burlington, and the brake lights were gone. They again came back on the 27th while driving. I pulled over and turned off the car and turned it back on. The lights went away, but they again came back on after 10-15ish minutes.
The electric braking system kicks in at inappropriate times. Hence resulting in my HRV to slow down (braking) on the highway all of a sudden. Then dropping down to around 10mph the car starts picking up speed, and the feeling of the car braking goes away.
I haven't even owned this car for 6 months and I am having electrical breaking issues.
![31120]( "31120")
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The “Electronic Braking System” light came on along with “Break” red light flashing on 24th Dec. On 25th the car sat on the driveway. Then on 26th I turned on the car to take it to the Honda Dealer in Burlington, and the brake lights were gone. They again came back on the 27th while driving. I pulled over and turned off the car and turned it back on. The lights went away, but they again came back on after 10-15ish minutes.
The electric braking system kicks in at inappropriate times. Hence resulting in my HRV to slow down (braking) on the highway all of a sudden. Then dropping down to around 10mph the car starts picking up speed, and the feeling of the car braking goes away.
I haven't even owned this car for 6 months and I am having electrical breaking issues.
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1,585 Posts
So you didn't take it to the dealer because the lights turned off? I suggest recording it on your phone and showing it to a service tech at the dealer.
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